I knew today's walk would only partially be in Fife, the other half being in Perthshire, but I wanted to include Lumbennie Hill trigpoint and visit Abernethy Cafe, as well as create a circular route, so I had little option but to resort to wandering in Perthshire (the only disadvantage to which being, of course, that I am currently bagging Fife girdsquares - just in case anyone is reading this who is unaware of this fact and is horrified that I can speak apparently so disparagingly of a beautiful county). Imagine doing Perthshire gridsquares - now that WOULD be a challenge, one that would last a lifetime I am sure.
Anyway,back to today's walk, which started in Newburgh. I parked at the Fife Coast car park on the west side of the village and made my way to the coast, or, more accurately, the River Tay. I love the way the map is dotted with names here for all the sand banks, which, of course, are not always visible - Kerewhip Bank, Wonder Bank, Reckit Lady Bank . . . These must have been named by navigators of days gone by, who knew these waters like the back of their hand.
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| Slip at Newburgh. NO2318 |
Mugdrum Island lies in the middle of the Tay here. It is visible as a long beige line in the photos, being the reedbed. The reeds were once used for thatching, and until 1926 there was a farm here, growing cereals, potatoes and turnips. It is now a nature reserve. But my favourite fact about this place is that a two headed kitten was born here in the 19th century; the Laing Museum in Newburgh apparently preserves the stuffed body thereof - now there's a reason to return here!
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| South Deep with Mugdrum Island in background. NO2218 |
The path here hugs the coastline, so I did not get to see the Mugdrum Cross or the woodland and pond at Mugdrum - another time maybe.
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| South Deep The other side of Mugdrum Island is known as North Deep. NO2118 |
Coltsfoot is unusual in that its cheery flower appears before its leaves, as if it wants to get in there before anyone else and be first to herald the spring. I salute you Coltsfoot.
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| Coltsfoot |
Three things happened after NO2118: the footpath came to an end, the map showed a Roman Legionary Fortress and I entered Perthshire. I got soggy feet for a while persuading myself that the footpath really did continue into the reedbed. I finally gave up and resigned myself to some soggy field walking instead. Which meant I could look for the Roman Legionary Fortress. There is not much left of this once extensive fortress which was very important at its time.
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| The northern rampart of Carpow Roman Legionary Fortress. NO2018 (Perthshire) |
Carpow Fort was situated at the confluence of the rivers Tay and Earn.
It was a large fortress with an area of thirty acres occupied by two legions at different times, Legio II Augusta and Legio VI Victrix, and thus of solid, permanent construction using stone, brick and tiles.
The fort was occupied from the late second century AD until the early third century AD. The site of the fort has not been comprehensively excavated but it is believed to have served as a naval supply depot for Roman forces in the central lowlands. Its occupation also coincided with the campaigns of Septimus Severus in the area.
However, its site on the southern side of the Tay estuary is incompatible with its use as a base for Severan offensive operations to the north and, along with other evidence, it is more likely that the fortress was built under Commodus in 185 to support his campaigns.
Excavations of the site between 1964 and 1979 discovered coins dating from the rule of Hadrian, a bath house and a granary. (Information from Wikipedia).
After this I did not take significant photographs until I re-entered Fife.The fort is worth returning to, but there was no path until I reached Abernethy and it was not pleasant or interesting walking through fields.
After my much appreciated Empire Biscuit in the Berryfields Tearoom, where the proprietress asked from whence I had travelled and to where was I headed, I travelled south past the Water Works and along the tumbling Nethy Burn to The Linns where I headed eastwards across the Ochil Hills. Here I briefly saw a Red Squirrel, which sadly darted away before I had chance to photograph it.
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| East Lomond from Cordon Hill. NO2015 |
I was re-entering Fife and looked in vain for a physical sign that this was so,but the boundary is marked only on the map and not on the ground, not even by a burn; who decides these things? Revelling in being back in Fife and photographing mode, I snapped a boring photograph of the track to celebrate.
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| Cordon Hill Forest Track - NO2015 |
I could have curtailed my walk by two or three miles at this point by continuing eastwards for quarter of a mile, but where's the fun in that when you can extend it to gain more gridsquares and when you've got all the time in the world to yourself with no obligations to be elsewhere? Oh, the joy of days off work and of solitary walking!
So, having found my footpath, I headed southwest to Turflundie Wood and then south-east to South Colzie. I'd been walking along the Perthshire/Fife border but suddenly broke off into the wilds of Fife.
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| South Colzie in the distance. Back in Fife proper. NO2014 |
This area is known as Pitmeddie Forest and some of it is densely forested, other parts are intensely farmed. I approached Raemore Farm, and then Pitmeddie Farm, still following a good farm track.
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| Raemore Farm. NO2114 |
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| Pitmedden Farm. NO2214 |
Almost a year later, writing this, I have vague recollections of sitting on a pile of tyres near here with a drink from the flask; I can't remember now where I had my picnic proper.
At Pitmedden I turned back on myself, heading northwest back up to Seven Gates where I would have ended up if I'd walked a quarter of a mile instead of an extra two or three. The forest walk was pleasant enough though.
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| Pitmedden Forest. NO2214 |
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| Seven Gates, Pitmedden Forest. NO2015. |
I'm guessing it's called Seven Gates as there must b e that number of footpaths converging here and probably that had more historical significance than it does today.
I turned eastwards now and was starting to get both apprehensive and excited about Lumbennie Hill trigpoint. Excited because I always get excited about entering new territory and a rush of adrenaline about achieving something I've set out to achieve; apprehensive because on my (admittedly) old OS map there were two lines of pylons marked, a trigpoint, and no path, and that always sows a small seed of anxiety in my mind. Would there be a path? (There often is, despite not being marked on the map).
There wasn't.
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| 'Path' to Lumbennie Hill trigpoint. NO2115 |
I looked in despair at the rough terrain I'd have to negotiate in order to reach my trig, which, on top of what was already going to be a 12 mile walk, I deemed to be a step too far. I'd leave it for another time.
Feeling somewhat downcast, I trudged along and was glad I was looking downwards because a small warty creature lumbered across my path, followed swiftly by another, then another and soon I realised the path was covered in toads of various colours and sizes, most busy mounting other toads as this was their breeding season.
My disappointment immediately dissipated at this delightful sight and I bent down to take a closer look and take a portrait photograph of each and every one. Whilst I love these creatures, they are joint first place in my daughter Lorna's affections (the other being what she insists on calling the Piecrust crab). She would be extremely envious of me right now.
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| An orgy of toads at Pitmedden. NO2215 |
Stepping ever so carefully and anxious lest a less cautious person should wander by on vehicle or foot, I tiptoed my way down towards the Woodriffe Road, admiring the toads' comical appearances as I passed each one. How utterly delightful to be so oblivious on what is going on around you whilst you fulfill your life's purpose - in this case, to mate and, arguably to give delight to observers such as I.
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| Pitmedden Forest Track. NO2215 |
Delightful though they were, they did not qualify as a Geograph for the square they were in, so I quickly snapped a much less interesting photograph for that purpose and moved on as quickly as the toads would allow me.
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| Lochmill Loch. NO2215 |
It was far from being monotonous in terms of scenery though. Firstly, Lochmill Loch provided a nice distraction from the dominant coniferous forest and then the distant hills brushed in snow were also a pleasant diversion for the eyes.
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| View north from Lochmill Loch. NO2215 |
At the T-junction, I turned left, back towards Newburgh and eager now to reach Macduff's Cross, marked in Old English Text on the map.
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| T-junction, Woodriffe Road. NO2216 |
A footpath sign directs the pedestrian left or right at MacDuff's Cross and there is an interesting history here. The old cart track was used by Roman patrols, by Macduff when fleeing Macbeth, by Queen Victoria and as a turnpike. The path was declared a pedestrian right of way by courts in 1997.
The remains of MacDuff's cross are thought to date from at least 1059 CE and allegedly mark the spot where the clan MacDuff, in return for its chief's services against Macbeth, was granted rights of sanctuary and composition for murder done in hot blood. This legend suggests a penalty of nine cows and a heifer for such a crime. Shortly after the death of Macbeth, Kikng of Scotland, Malcolm III of Scotland was also supposed to have bestowed on the Thane of Fife the privilege of ordaining theKing, and leading the charge in battle. The cross was originally dedicated to Saint Magider and smashed to pieces by a mob of fanatical followers of John Knox in 1559. It was a place where William Ballingall suggested "arch-criminals claimed the protection of the Law of Clan Macduff".
The cross was said to have been marked with a "metrical inscription, in a strange half-Latin jargon, the varying copies of which, still preserved, have given much occupation to antiquaries". After studying two early translations, Walter Wood suggested that it read "An altar for those whom law pursues, a hall for those whom strife pursues, being without a home. Who makest thy way hither, to thee this paction becomes a harbour. But there is hope of peace only when the murder has been committed by those born of my grandson. I set free the accused, a fine of a thousand drachms from his lands. On account of Macgridin and of this offering, take once for all the cleansing of my heirs beneath this stone filled with water."
(Information from Wikipedia)
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| MacDuff's Cross, Newburgh. NO2216 |
From here, I walked back down the road enjoying views of the silvery Tay as I went and pausing to take my final photograph of the day before returning to my car.
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| River Tay westwards from Newburgh. NO2217 |
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| House and letterbox at Woodriffe, Newburgh. NO227 |
Number of new gridsquares: 11
Number of miles walked: 12.2
Number of trigpoints almost reached: 1
Number of toads seen: numerous
Highlights: Toads, Red Squirrel, Roman Legionary Fortress, MacDuff's Cross, Mugdrum Island
Walk worth repeating: not in its entirety, but could have a car at Newburgh and one at Abernethy and adapt and shorten walk to suit. Return to bag Lumbennie Hill trig
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