Preserved by Salt - St Monans to Anstruther via Abercrombie - 3rd November 2019

Once again, today's walk was focused on the Covenanters, or at least I thought it was. I had tried to park at Abercrombie Church a few weeks before in order to visit what I thought was a ruined church associated with the Covenanters. I had failed to find anywhere suitable to park, so decided to create a route which passed the ruin - and this was it.

So, quite excited at the prospect of a ruined church, I parked at St Monans and began my walk north, hoping the black cloud in front of me would choose a different route.

Short John Silver, St Monans. NO5201

I crossed the A917 and saluted Short John Silver before joining the road to Abercrombie, where I walked alongside ploughed fields, which the gulls were enjoying.

Ploughed field and gulls at Craigiewells. NO5202

At the little village of Abercrombie, I turned sharp right, past some bungalows and Abercrombie Farm to the B942, which I crossed.

Abercrombie. NO5102

I was in NO5103 for a few hundred feet as I walked alongside some old haystacksk, getting excited as my destination drew near.

Path to Abercrombie Church. NO5103

The tiny ruin of Abercrombie Chapel measures a mere 46.5 feet by 23 feet. During my research I had read that the minister of Abercrombie during the Covenanting times was Robert Wilkie and that he had been confined to his parish in 1662 for refusal to conform to espicopacy. What I didn't realise until much later after this walk was that Abercrombie and St Monans were, at that time, the same parish, having been co-joined in October 1646. This means that although the parish was called Abercrombie, the church was the one at St Monans. Apparently, on 20 March 1663 Robert Wilkie 'depairted out of this life att Abercrombie, and was interred att Abercrombie the 24 of March, in the day tyme.' (The Chronicle of Fife: Being the Diary of John Lamont of Newton, from 1649) I have since been to look for his grave at St Monans, but the search was in vain.

Abercrombie Church. NO5203

I sat on a bench here for some time with a cup of tea, listening to birdsong and the song of the centuries absorbed by these old stone walls. Then I resumed my walk reflectively.

I was in the grounds of Balcaskie House and the trees were resplendent in their regal colours.

Oak Tree in Balcaskie Estate. NO5203

Balcaskie Estate. NO5203

Balcaskie House. NO5203

I crossed the Dreel Burn and followed a path round Balcaskie House to the eastern entrance. A car drove past me and did not seem to question my presence, so I felt safe. I am never quite sure with these big estates.

Eastern driveway to Balcaskie House. NO5203

As I approached the driveway's end I could see closed gates and began to wonder  how I would get through them. There was a little lodge there too which looked inhabited. Was I about to be embarrassed? I needn't have worried; there was a little button to press and hey presto, the gates opened. There are two doocots attached by a low wall to the gate piers.

Doocots and gate piers, eastern entrance, Balcaskie House. NO5303

The drive continued past Inch Farm and the beech hedge was glorious.

Eastern driveway to Balcaskie House. NO5303

I emerged onto the minor road to Pittenweem at South Lodge and turned north, following the road for a hundred yards or so before turning right to Easter Grangemuir, a big concern.

Balcaskie, South Lodge, NO5403

Easter Grangemuir. NO5404

I passed two walkers here so was able to see which route they had taken round the farm as there were several signs warning about machinery etc.

Once past the farm I entered NO5504 briefly.

Towards Easter Grangemuir. NO5504

I then continued southwards onto Milton Mill, enjoying the colours of autumn.

Track at Milton Mill. NO5503

I was approaching Anstruther Wester now and followed the Dreel Burn and went underneath a bridge. which once carried the Leven-Crail-St Andrews-Leuchars ('Fife coastal') route of the former North British Railway over the Dreel Burn.

Old Railway Bridge, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

I photographed, but did not cross, the last bridge over the Dreel.

Last bridge over the River Dreel, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

Where the Dreel meets the sea. NO5603

I walked to the church, now Dreel Halls, before heading towards the coast for my return route.

Dreel Halls, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

Anstruther is a most attractive town.

Dreel Tavern. NO5603

High Street West, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

The town is rich in fishing history and still has its memories and dreams, as a sign reminded me.

Full of Dreams, NO5603

I left Anstruther to its dreams and continued westwards past the Golf Course and Billow Ness.

Billow Ness. NO5602

Before long I caught my first glimpse of Pittenweem beneath a threatening sky.

Pittenweem from the east. NO5502

I sat at Pittenweem harbour with my lunch and the boats for company.

Pittenweem Harbour. NO5502

Then I left this attractive fishing port to continue westwards on the last stretch of my walk.

West Shore, Pittenweem. NO5402

There was little to photograph in the next square, other than the coast path itself.

Fife Coastal Path near Croal Farm. NO5302

Then I approached the windmill and the Saltpans at St Monans, my last gridsquare of the day.

St Monans Windmill. NO5301

St Monans Saltpans. NO5301

There were nine saltpans here in the 18th Century. A  wooden pipe drew sea water into the pans. Furnaces were used to boil the water using coal (for which a waggonway was in place). It is said egg white or bull's blood was added to remove impurities from the water. Each boiling could take four hours. Women and children carried the coal to the furnace and salt back from the furnace. it was heavy and dirty work. The salt was exported from St Monans harbour. The waggonway went out of use in 1794 due to an underground fire which reduced the amount of available coal. The pans were finally abandoned in 1823.

I love imagining the hubbub of life here in those industrious times. I can easily visualise the coastline peopled by those hard-working men, women and children. No doubt it was a noisier and dirtier time. I've often wondered if it were  happier time too; there's no way of knowing the answer to that question of course unless time travel becomes an option for no one person can live in both the 18th and the 21st century.

I passed a lone walker who was accompanied by a bottle of something and a St Bernard Dog. He hung around for a while whilst I explored and photographed these interesting environs. There was one more thing of interest on my walk today, something else which evoked more sounds from the past, the echos of people screaming and water splashing - the St Monans Lido. No doubt this too was a source of endless fun for the locals and an important way of safely learning to swim. I'm not sure if it is still used, but I don't see why it shouldn't be, if you're that way inclined.

St Monans Lido. NO5301

Oh, well, I guess that's my answer . . .

Resisting the urge to swim, I turned to face the other way and headed back to the safety of my car.

Number of new gridsquares: 16
Number of miles walked: 8.8
Walk worth repeating: Yes, 
Highlights: Abercrombie Church, Pittenweem, Anstruther, St Monans

Of Former Flight - Kingsbarns Circular - 8th March 2020

After dropping  Lorna off at Cupar station, I drove on to Kingsbarns, where today's walk would begin. I swithered between clockwise or anti-clockwise for the walk. I've usually got a particular direction in my head without thinking about it too much, and I had today - anti-clockwise. That was because I wanted to see the sea, but then I decided it would be nice to see the sea at the end of my walk, so I plumped for clockwise and get the boring bit over and done with first.

Kingsbarns Car Park - NO6012

And that's hopefully today's most boring photograph also over and done with right at the start!

I walked up Sea Road, which I'd just driven down and strode off to the left at the first opportunity so I could walk through the woods, rather than along the road. Signs of spring were everywhere. I heard Dunnock and saw buds of fresh green Hawthorn. A brand new building caught my eye and I decided to photograph it for the gridsquare. I later discovered it's something to do with the R & A (which, for the uninitiated, like me) stands for Royal And Ancient (Golf Course), so it's got something to do with golf.

R & A Centre, Kingsbarns. NO5912

I didn't realise I was walking towards Cambo House and was surprised to discover someone (dogless) behind me. She turned off toward the house when we approached this tourist attraction.

Cambo Farm. NO5911

I had visited Cambo House last February with Tim, which had been very poignant as he had been the year before with our parents. Mum loved snowdrops and the display here is well worth seeing. I hope there are Snowdrops for her in heaven. Seeing them here today, albeit past their best, strengthened my connection with her and I smiled through my tears.

Cambo House. NO6011

Entrance to Cambo Farm. NO6010

Snowdrops at Cambo House. NO6010.

Walking through the woodland I was suddenly accosted by fairies, or, to be more accurate, by their absence. It was as if they had just exited the stage. fled on my approach and their scent yet lingered in the woody air.

Evidence of fairies in Cambo Wood. NO6010

Soon their scent was overcome by the sound and whiff of traffic fumes as I approached the ever busy A917. I checked my map to see how long I had to walk along this road for. Not long. Phew! I photographed the entrance to Cambo House as my subject for gridsquare NO5910 and then one of Fife's attractive milestones, complete with benchmarks, which most of them seem to have.

Entrance to Cambo House. NO5910

Cambo Milestone. NO5910

I crossed the road and made for my exit therefrom, photographing an unusual 'upside down' benchmark on the gatepost to West Newhall Farm as I took that turn off.

'Upside down' benchmark at entrance to West Newhall Farm. NO6010

Entrance to West Newhall Farm. NO6010. The unusual benchmark is on the right-hand gatepost on the other side from the photograph.

The gateposts sufficed for a photograph for this gridsquare as I was not to be in it for long. They certainly made more of gateposts in the olden days; I had noticed that frequently on my ramblings through Fife - that and the plethora of dovecots.

I was feeling the need of a rest so I sat on a tree stump and annoyed a Buzzard who mewed persistently. "I won't be here for long," I reassured him.

Woodland in NO5909.

Although the path is well marked on my 2004 version of the OS Explorer map, in reality it is not so pronounced and I fought my way through to the former railway line at Summerfield, where the property was being renovated. I bet the workers there do not see many lone walkers fighting through the undergrowth.

Cycle route at Summerfield. NO5909

I was somewhat relieved to see a blue cycle route sign pointing in both directions here. For future reference I shall take the route to the right, but today, to gain a trigpoint and more squares, I was heading left. The track follows the former Anstruther/St Andrews railway line. I love these paths and think there should be more of them as there are so many former railway lines throughout Fife and not all of them are traversible.

I paused to greet two donkeys at Summerfield who came 'bounding' to see me but our greeting wasat a distance due to an electric fence between us.

Donkeys and electric fence at Summerfield. NO5909

I almost promised that the most boring photograph was out of the way, but I didn't foresee NO6009 and it's a good job I am in the habit of constantly checking my phone map as I was in that gridsquare for all of about four steps before leaving it, just long enough to snap a photograph in the right direction.

NO6009

I must admit, it does always feel a bit like cheating to do that, but it's in my rules. It doesn't stop me from prolonging my visit to this gridsquare and getting a better photograph on a future occasion though.

For now, I walked past Ragfield and approached the B9171 and my first bridge of the day.

Bridge near Ragfield. NO6008

I was to follow the B9171 all the way through the next gridsquare, past Ribbonfield, whose sign I liked a lot, another reminder of former days.

Ribbonfield. NO5908

Then I was at the entrance to Lochton.

Entrance to Lochton Farm. NO5808

This was definitely the section of the walk I would not do again, but am glad I have done. At least I was going to get a trigpoint for my trouble. Not so. If I had done my homework properly before setting off, or if someone had answered my knock on the door at Lochton, I would have learnt that the Lochton trigpoint now lies in a ditch somewhere. I didn't know this though as I scoured the hill where it was supposed to be for any signs of its dominating pillar. I walked right up to its supposed location and looked again in vain. In disgust I walked across the filed down to the B940, not wanting to wander through private property at Cocklaw, though that would have been a more direct route to my next destination.

Muirhead gatepost. NO5809

I snapped the above photograph for the gridsquare and raced up the road to get to where I was supposed to be, mad at my futile field ramblings.  I hoped the next farm path would prove walkable. My 2004 map is not always reliable, but then often when I have checked against the 2014 version, I have found the footpaths little changed; it's often the major roads that have been marked as altered.

I was pleased to finally see Yellowhammer at Hilleraye as I waved to the farmer passing me in his pick up truck.

Hilleraye Farm. NO5709

The path from Hilleraye is not immediately obvious so I felt a little self-conscious as I waved to the farmer. Did he wonder what I was up to and where I was headed? The trick is to look confident and smile. In fact the footpath heads off north-east and is very obvious when you approach. Phew! My mood was picking up now as I was back on track and had seen two more benchmarks so far. It continued to improve as I approached Kippo Cottages and realised they were boarded up. This was sad, but made an attractive subject for a photograph, and furthermore, made scouring round for the benchmark much easier.

Kippo Cottages. NO5810

The benchmark was barely visible on the end of the right hand cottage.

Benchmark on Kippo Cottages. NO5810

If Kippo Cottages were deserted, Kippo Farm was not and I greeted the hefty bull and his mistresses as I walked past.

Cattle at Kippo Farm. NO5710

I photographed the benchmark on one of the outbuildings and then the very photogenic farm buildings.

Benchmark at Kippo Farm. NO5710

Kippo Farm. NO5710

There would be enough  material here for a days' worth of photography and I was enjoying the forgotten world feeling of today's walk, which was to continue.

Doocot, Kippo Farm. NO5710

Fife is apparently the doocot capital of Scotland. I felt I had only just begun my 'Footsteps through Fife' and yet, even in these, my early travels, I was frequently stopping to photograph doocots. so what was it about doocots and Fife?

Apparently there were 360 doocots in Fife in the 18th century, 106 of which still survive today. Their original purpose was to provide housing for rock doves which in turn would provide a delicacy for their owner's table. There are those concerned for the future of doocots,a s there are those concerned for the future of former red telephone kiosks, and I admire both groups. For more information about doocots, visit The Courier.

Hook feature at Kippo Farm. NO5710

I emerged onto a minor road which would have led me in just over a mile back into Kingsbarns and I realised I was only at my half-way point. I turned right and, resisting the urge to continue and head into Kingsbarns, I turned left towards the poultry farm.

Kingsbarns from my halfway point. NO5711

I was walking along a gravelly track and pulled over at least once for passing traffic. "She must live at the poultry farm," I mused as I waved cheerily to the occupant of the small car. I always try to judge the driver's thoughts from their return greeting. Surprise? Worry? Indifference? Curiosity? I couldn't tell in this instance and wandered on, wondering where I might pause to eat my lunch. I didn't fancy eating it at the poultry farm as they are notoriously smelly places.

I passed some more disused buildings, which I discovered later were associated with the nearby Dunino airfield, but in what context I was unable to establish. There was also an old water tank.

Industrial 20th Century archaeology near Dunino Airfield. NO5711

Emergency Water Tank. NO5711

More places to return to and explore/photograph further. The abandoned/redundant feeling of today's walk was growing.

The road crossed the Kilduncan Burn and I entered another relic of a bygone age - the poultry farm. Far from the anticipated noise and stench, the air was normally stale and eerily quiet with just a few bits of detached bits of building flapping poignantly in the breeze. I later discovered that many of the buildings here were built as hangars and for other uses by Dunino Airfield. Their alternative name is HMS Jackdaw II. They were then reclaimed for use as a poultry farm, but today, their association with either avian or man-made flight seems long forgotten.

Of former flight - redundant buildings at Kilduncan Poultry Farm/HMS Jackdaw II. NO5711

I didn't fancy sitting anywhere here with my lunch as it was very windy, so I pressed on, turning left at a 'T-junction'. This was to prove a mistake as the footpath dwindles out to nothing. I was tempted to continue on the path leading left round the former airfield, but this would, best case scenario, add a mile to my walk, worst case scenario add two miles to my walk if I had to return to this, my starting point. I reluctantly turned back. I would have to walk up the dismantled railway line at Kilduncan north to Kenly Bridge and miss out on two gridsquares. Still, I would be gaining one I wouldn't otherwise have gained.

So I returned to the 'T-junction and continued eastwards towards Kilduncan Farm where I wanted to avoid the gaze of the JCB, or rather, its driver. He was facing the other way so I quickly turned northwards and joined the former Anstruther/St Andrews railway line.

Former Anstruther/St Andrews railway line at Kilduncan. NO5712

The traverse of NO5712 was rather monotonous, particularly as I was getting hungry and keen to find somewhere to sit with my lunch. I thought the timing was perfect when I was caught in a heavy shower just as I approached a railway tunnel, but the tunnel proved to be a wind tunnel, so I was dry but in a howling gale! I put my camera way and headed back into the rain.

Boarhills Railway Bridge. NO5613

Apparently, further along this section of railway there is a viaduct, and I toyed with the idea of continuing along the railway line to join the A917 further west, but thought it was a slightly better option to go eastwards instead. I'm not sure if the viaduct is accessible or traversible, but that provides yet another reason to redo at least sections of this walk.

I had emerged at the Kenly Water and found my way down to a tree stump where I finally was able to eat my lunch by the fast flowing river. I was on constant look out for Dipper, Grey Wagtail or Kingfisher, but saw nothing except Goldfinch, a new bird for me today.

In keeping with my theme of former things I snapped a former farm building, now in an advanced state of disrepair. I was glad to be by the water, but it was difficult to get an unobstructed view of it for a photograph or to satisfactorily gaze at the water.

Former farm building by Kenly Water. NO5613

Kenly Bridge over Kenly Water. NO5613

I later read that my suspicions were in fact correct; Gallows Law, the lower flanks of which I had been sitting, was used for the execution of local criminals in days gone by. Apparently stone coffins have been found in the locality. Spooky!

My map showed a footbridge at Kenlygreen, so I headed through the austere gateposts and went off the driveway down to the water's edge where I followed the river to the said footbridge, only to find a small gate with a padlock on it. Mad, I turned round and retraced my steps to the Kenly Bridge. I was going to have to find an alternative route - again! I did see another doocot for my troubles, albeit with restricted views, but I had not gained another gridsquare for the extra half mile I'd walked.

Kenlygreen doocot. NO5613

I followed the A917 to a house beyond which my map showed a footpath. But would it be there? It just about was. I took it and lept niftly over a wooden gate into a field and back down to the Kenly Water and the Fife Coast Path. I was relieved to be on an official path once more. At first I thought I had to cross the footbridge (phew, it was there and no gate or padlock!), but realised the FCP crosses the Kenly Water on its southwards route and that I was on the correct side of the river. And there were more ruins to boot! Things were definitely looking up. This was by far the most scenic part of the walk and I revelled in the sound of rushing water; one needs natural sounds to keep one sane, to remind one that life flows and goes on. In my stale office atmosphere there is very little that is natural about it, so it is no wonder my spirit is lifeless by the end of the day.

My feet found energy again as I walked by the river, peering into more ruined relics of the past, death and life side by side as they naturally are.

Pitmilly Mill NO5713

Kenly Water. NO5713

I went up some steps and continued my walk by the beautiful Kenly Water.

Steps by Kenly Water. NO5713

Kenly Water. NO5713.

Further along I at last heard and saw the Dipper. What a joy that was! Singing its little heart out and welcoming spring. Nature has such a restorative effect if we only expose ourselves to it often enough. Immerse ourselves in its beauty. We were designed to be outdoors so much more often than we are; I'm sure of it!

A little further on, revelling in the sound of the rushing water, I passed another ruin, Hillhead Mill. I took a peep and mused on times gone by and the simpler life it was then, in some ways, but, in others, much harder.

Hillhead Mill by Kenly Water. NO5714

Hillhead Mill. NO5714

Kenly Water. NO5714.

All too soon I was at the mouth of the Kenly Water and there before me lay the vast open sea. There's nothing quite like it for soothing the troubled soul and it lay bathed in sunshine and tranquillity.

Kenly Water mouth. NO5814

I was glad I'd left the best till last and this was a super walk after all the miles through fields. Ahead I could see the remains of another building.

Fife Coast Path with Hillhead Fishing Station in distance. NO5814

Hillhead Fishing Station. NO5814

Fife Coast Path near Hillhead Fishing Station. NO5814

Relics of a former life. Hillhead Fishing Station. NO5814.

I continued on my way, basking in the sunshine.

Fife Coast Path and Hillhead Fishing Station. NO5814

I had just two gridsquares left before returning to the car, and I'd picked up quite a few coastal species en route - Redshank,  Turnstone, Oystercatcher, Rock Pipit and Eider.

Fife Coast Path at Babbet Ness. NO5914

Yet another strategically placed subject lay in my lens' view for the next gridsquare - an abandoned caravan at Airbow Point.

Caravan at Airbow Point. NO5913

Airbow Point. NO5913

I'd been resisting the urge to photograph lichen as it always presents me with the problem of wanting to identify it and I would never walk far if I stopped at every single temptation. Some delightful ramalinas stopped me in my tracks, however, simply demanding I photograph them.

Ramalina lichen on Fife Coast Path.

Redshank. NO6012

My miles were done for the day, and for quite a few days thereafter. I hope to be out again soon. Spring is calling and deserves our embrace.

Number of new gridsquares: 23

Number of miles walked: 13

Walk worth repeating: with a few changes, yes, want to explore Poultry farm more and Dunino airfield.

Highlights: coastal stretch, Poultry Farm, Kenly Water