Preserved by Salt - St Monans to Anstruther via Abercrombie - 3rd November 2019

Once again, today's walk was focused on the Covenanters, or at least I thought it was. I had tried to park at Abercrombie Church a few weeks before in order to visit what I thought was a ruined church associated with the Covenanters. I had failed to find anywhere suitable to park, so decided to create a route which passed the ruin - and this was it.

So, quite excited at the prospect of a ruined church, I parked at St Monans and began my walk north, hoping the black cloud in front of me would choose a different route.

Short John Silver, St Monans. NO5201

I crossed the A917 and saluted Short John Silver before joining the road to Abercrombie, where I walked alongside ploughed fields, which the gulls were enjoying.

Ploughed field and gulls at Craigiewells. NO5202

At the little village of Abercrombie, I turned sharp right, past some bungalows and Abercrombie Farm to the B942, which I crossed.

Abercrombie. NO5102

I was in NO5103 for a few hundred feet as I walked alongside some old haystacksk, getting excited as my destination drew near.

Path to Abercrombie Church. NO5103

The tiny ruin of Abercrombie Chapel measures a mere 46.5 feet by 23 feet. During my research I had read that the minister of Abercrombie during the Covenanting times was Robert Wilkie and that he had been confined to his parish in 1662 for refusal to conform to espicopacy. What I didn't realise until much later after this walk was that Abercrombie and St Monans were, at that time, the same parish, having been co-joined in October 1646. This means that although the parish was called Abercrombie, the church was the one at St Monans. Apparently, on 20 March 1663 Robert Wilkie 'depairted out of this life att Abercrombie, and was interred att Abercrombie the 24 of March, in the day tyme.' (The Chronicle of Fife: Being the Diary of John Lamont of Newton, from 1649) I have since been to look for his grave at St Monans, but the search was in vain.

Abercrombie Church. NO5203

I sat on a bench here for some time with a cup of tea, listening to birdsong and the song of the centuries absorbed by these old stone walls. Then I resumed my walk reflectively.

I was in the grounds of Balcaskie House and the trees were resplendent in their regal colours.

Oak Tree in Balcaskie Estate. NO5203

Balcaskie Estate. NO5203

Balcaskie House. NO5203

I crossed the Dreel Burn and followed a path round Balcaskie House to the eastern entrance. A car drove past me and did not seem to question my presence, so I felt safe. I am never quite sure with these big estates.

Eastern driveway to Balcaskie House. NO5203

As I approached the driveway's end I could see closed gates and began to wonder  how I would get through them. There was a little lodge there too which looked inhabited. Was I about to be embarrassed? I needn't have worried; there was a little button to press and hey presto, the gates opened. There are two doocots attached by a low wall to the gate piers.

Doocots and gate piers, eastern entrance, Balcaskie House. NO5303

The drive continued past Inch Farm and the beech hedge was glorious.

Eastern driveway to Balcaskie House. NO5303

I emerged onto the minor road to Pittenweem at South Lodge and turned north, following the road for a hundred yards or so before turning right to Easter Grangemuir, a big concern.

Balcaskie, South Lodge, NO5403

Easter Grangemuir. NO5404

I passed two walkers here so was able to see which route they had taken round the farm as there were several signs warning about machinery etc.

Once past the farm I entered NO5504 briefly.

Towards Easter Grangemuir. NO5504

I then continued southwards onto Milton Mill, enjoying the colours of autumn.

Track at Milton Mill. NO5503

I was approaching Anstruther Wester now and followed the Dreel Burn and went underneath a bridge. which once carried the Leven-Crail-St Andrews-Leuchars ('Fife coastal') route of the former North British Railway over the Dreel Burn.

Old Railway Bridge, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

I photographed, but did not cross, the last bridge over the Dreel.

Last bridge over the River Dreel, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

Where the Dreel meets the sea. NO5603

I walked to the church, now Dreel Halls, before heading towards the coast for my return route.

Dreel Halls, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

Anstruther is a most attractive town.

Dreel Tavern. NO5603

High Street West, Anstruther Wester. NO5603

The town is rich in fishing history and still has its memories and dreams, as a sign reminded me.

Full of Dreams, NO5603

I left Anstruther to its dreams and continued westwards past the Golf Course and Billow Ness.

Billow Ness. NO5602

Before long I caught my first glimpse of Pittenweem beneath a threatening sky.

Pittenweem from the east. NO5502

I sat at Pittenweem harbour with my lunch and the boats for company.

Pittenweem Harbour. NO5502

Then I left this attractive fishing port to continue westwards on the last stretch of my walk.

West Shore, Pittenweem. NO5402

There was little to photograph in the next square, other than the coast path itself.

Fife Coastal Path near Croal Farm. NO5302

Then I approached the windmill and the Saltpans at St Monans, my last gridsquare of the day.

St Monans Windmill. NO5301

St Monans Saltpans. NO5301

There were nine saltpans here in the 18th Century. A  wooden pipe drew sea water into the pans. Furnaces were used to boil the water using coal (for which a waggonway was in place). It is said egg white or bull's blood was added to remove impurities from the water. Each boiling could take four hours. Women and children carried the coal to the furnace and salt back from the furnace. it was heavy and dirty work. The salt was exported from St Monans harbour. The waggonway went out of use in 1794 due to an underground fire which reduced the amount of available coal. The pans were finally abandoned in 1823.

I love imagining the hubbub of life here in those industrious times. I can easily visualise the coastline peopled by those hard-working men, women and children. No doubt it was a noisier and dirtier time. I've often wondered if it were  happier time too; there's no way of knowing the answer to that question of course unless time travel becomes an option for no one person can live in both the 18th and the 21st century.

I passed a lone walker who was accompanied by a bottle of something and a St Bernard Dog. He hung around for a while whilst I explored and photographed these interesting environs. There was one more thing of interest on my walk today, something else which evoked more sounds from the past, the echos of people screaming and water splashing - the St Monans Lido. No doubt this too was a source of endless fun for the locals and an important way of safely learning to swim. I'm not sure if it is still used, but I don't see why it shouldn't be, if you're that way inclined.

St Monans Lido. NO5301

Oh, well, I guess that's my answer . . .

Resisting the urge to swim, I turned to face the other way and headed back to the safety of my car.

Number of new gridsquares: 16
Number of miles walked: 8.8
Walk worth repeating: Yes, 
Highlights: Abercrombie Church, Pittenweem, Anstruther, St Monans