I've already mentioned Fife's accolade as being the doocot capital of Scotland in another post, so here is another one of its remaining 106 doocots in the small village of Boarhills on the Fife Coast Path.
Boarhills Doocot - NO5614 |
We joined the Fife Coast Path here and would remain on it for the duration of our 5.5 mile walk. Buddo Rock formed an excellent subject for the next gridsquare, most of which is under water (the gridsquare, not the rock).
Buddo Rock. NO5615 |
It was a glorious time of year to be doing this walk as the bluebells lined our path.
Bluebells at Buddo Ness. NO5515 |
A war time concrete pill box has been built into the rock face along this stretch of coast. It is a double look-out post connected by a small tunnel and the two concrete blockhouses have gun-loops for small calibre weapons in them. In the western pillbox there is a vertical shaft with metal ladder to allow access/egress from a concrete opening above and at the eastern end is a further entrance. Extant within the western end of the rock cut tunnel are the remains of the original metal tunnel lining. (Information found here)
Pillbox, Boarhills. NO5515 |
NO5515 is rich in interest as there is also a fort in this gridsquare. This information about it can be found on the Canmore Site:
This earthwork is formed by a massive bank and ditch which isolates the promontory between the ravine known as Kittock's Den and a sea-cliff 100ft high. Although heavily ploughed down 'the rampart can hardly have been less than 50ft in thickness..., while the ditch has been at least 55ft in width.'
The area enclosed, about 285ft in length by 260ft maximum width, slopes gently towards the NW and contains no trace of buildings. The original entrance was probably between the end of the defences on the SE and the ravine, the gap at the other end being secondary. A cart-track which climbs the west face of the ravine, in recent use, may represent an improved version of an original access between the earthwork and the shore.
The field containing the antiquity is known as 'Castle Acre' and, although this may refer solely to the bank and ditch, in conjunction with the massive nature of the defences, it suggests that the earthwork is medieval rather than prehistoric.
Fort at Buddo Ness. NO5515 |
Across the sea of bluebells and Red Campion, we could now see our destination with its rui8ned Cathedral dominating the skyline.
St Andrews from Buddo Ness. NO5515 |
Kittock's Den. NO5515 |
Gorse on the Fife Coast Path. NO5515 |
There were all the colours of the rainbow on today's walk - a photographer's paradise. St Andrews was getting closer.
Approaching St Andrews. NO5515 |
Strangely, the only photograph I took in the next gridsquare was of a footbridge.
Footbridge near Kinkell. NO5415 |
A Whitethroat poured out its spring symphony to us flitting from bush to bush, allowing only a poor photograph.
Whitethroat. |
Suddenly we were at the Rock and Spindle, a rather phallic looking sea stack with its accompanying Sleeping Beauty like spindle.
Rock and Spindle. NO5315 |
This was where I was to leave Elaine briefly for a bit of solo exploration onto the Castle Golf Course, for it was here in the late seventeenth century that Kinkell Castle stood.
Alexander Hamilton was the owner of the castle at that time and was a devoted Covenanter. He sheltered ministers who were hiding from the law, and Kinkell was often the site for conventicles or illegal Christian meetings. Early in 1674 the Covenanting preacher John Blackadder came to speak to a crowd that filled two chambers, a long gallery and the courtyard. Archbishop Sharp's wife sent the town militia to break up the meeting. When they arrived at the scene, however and saw the huge crowd of people who had come to hear the speaker, the militia sent for more help. Later they returned to the town. The next day Blackadder returned to preach again, and a huge crowd of people from St Andrews went to hear him. When the Archbishop asked the provost to send the militia to break up this meeting, the provost said he could not, since the militia had also gone to hear the preaching.
Nothing is now left of the Castle of Kinkell, but I wanted to photograph the area in which it once stood. How many other antiquities are thus erased from history's memory?
Area of Kinkell Castle, now the Castle Course. NO5315 |
I rejoined Elaine and we revelled in the myriad of spring flowers which carpeted our path. Lesser Celandine, Red Campion, Primrose and Bluebell. The world offer so many treasures free of charge for those who have eyes to see and souls to absorb.
Wild flower treasures at Kinkell Ness. NO5315 |
Our journey was near its end, but the best part was left till last - the Covenanters' Cave. We had little idea if we could even find the cave, let alone access it, but I had done my homework and knew it existed somewhere above the shore and I had as exact a grid reference for it as I was likely to get. We descended a steep slope to the shore and searched for any clues. Imagine my joy at seeing a tell tale rope at the foot of a slope which led up to the cave in question.
Kinkell Cave. NO5315 |
Inside Kinkell Cave. NO5315 |
We grappled with three different ropes and managed to ascend up to and into the cave. I was thrilled. I tried to set the scene for Elaine.
Following the assassination of Archbishop Sharp in May 1679 Andrew and Alexander Henderson of Kilbrackmont Farm near Kilconquhar, went into hiding at home. But the troopers came looking for them and almost found them, after which they escaped to a cave by the sea where they stayed for a few weeks. And this was that cave - as far as we know anyway.
It's a little bit spooky to mentally transport yourself several hundred years back to imagine living in this cave, albeit much changed from what it was and living with a real sense of fear of death, of exposure, of shame, of the unknown.
There is an excellent link here to Dr Mark Jardine's website with much more information on this story.
After spending some time in the dark and damp environment of the cave, we slid Tarzan like down the ropes back to the beach and the back up to rejoin the Fife Coast Path and what a surprise lay just around the corner.
The most amazing display of bluebells I have ever seen!
Blue Wonder and St Andrews. NO5315 |
It felt like we were being washed in the scent of bluebells and it felt so good.
We continued on our way and soon were at East Sands and my final gridsquare of the day.
East Sands. NO5215 |
Number of new gridsquares: 6
Number of miles walked: 5.5
Walk worth repeating:resounding yes!
Highlights: display of bluebells, Kinkell Cave
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