Largo Law - 23/03/2019

The sun beckoned us out today for our long-awaited ascent of one of Fife's nine marilyns - Largo Law. I'd checked the map and worked out a wonderful circular walk with the proviso as always that 'I haven't done this walk before so there's always a slight risk of it not working out quite as planned.' I'm quite comfortable with this risk when on my own; I've only my own discomfort to cope with, but when I'm with someone else, I tend to be more conscious of it and my levels of anxiety about it increase in increments, depending on whom I'm with. I was with my younger brother today, an experienced walker, so I wasn't too worried, but thought I'd throw that proviso in anyway.

We set off in Robinson Crusoe's village, or rather the village of his author's birth, Lower Largo, a delightful place to begin any walk, and headed eastwards from the car park, along the old railway line at the same time as two other male walkers. We guessed they were doing the coast path.

Coast path at Lower Largo. NO4202

Looking west from Lower Largo with the two other walkers on the beach. NO4202.

We lost the other walkers at Viewforth ruin when we turned inland and northwards.

Ruins at Viewforth. NO4302

The small settlement of Viewforth used to sit on either side of the disused railway line.  It was once known at Largo Pans owing to its origins as a salt works. The main house here used to be a popular rental place and the Edinburgh-based artist Hugh Cameron RSA (1835-1918) used to spend his summers here and found inspiration for his work in the seascapes of the area. For more information about the history of Viewforth, visit this excellent blog. The only residents now were these curious sheep.

The residents of Viewforth. NO4302

We cast a final glimpse seaward before heading inland.

Ivy posts at Viewforth, looking towards Lower Largo. NO4302

At Buckthorns we could see the distinct path up our massif. This path is clearly visible at speed on the A917, it is so well worn.

Largo Law from Buckthorns. NO4303

Had we only known what we were soon to discover we would have taken the footpath I can clearly remember seeing at Buckthorns, leading to Upper Largo. But, no, I was confident we could tackle the hill from the A915 at Chesterstone. 

Largo La\w and Chesterstone. NO4203

So onwards and upwards we went, pausing to take a photograph of one of Fife's attractive milestones, albeit in need of a coat of paint and some TLC.

Milestone on A917. Leven 4. NO4203

At Chesterstone, where we hoped to access the hill, we were met with an unwelcome sign.

Disappointing sign at Chesterstone. NO4203

This was a blow. Did hoards of people really attempt to access the hill from here? I couldn't imagine so; our plans were thwarted at any rate and we discussed our options. 1) Ignore the sign. 2) Walk back the way we'd come and forget our attempt on Largo Law. 3) walk to Upper Largo and climb from there. 4) Walk on a bit to see if there was access elsewhere. We chose option 4 and went some way up another farm track but a farmer in a pick up stopped us and advised us that, although you could access the hill from that track you would be better for various reasons to start from the cemetery at Upper Largo.

It is not pleasant walking along the A915. I shall not attempt it again in a hurry. Now we had to walk along it back to Upper Largo and up to the cemetery where we tried to imagine that hadn't happened as we sat with our lunch on the cemetery wall.

It was a glorious day and we did not remain disconsolate for long. we were now on a mission to discover the site of Donald Cargill's preaching on 24th October 1680. (As an aside, Alexander Selkirk of Robinson Crusoe/Lower Largo fame would have been four years old at the time.)

The approach to Largo Law. NO4203

The ascent of this hill is very steep and, as can be seen from most angles, there are two summits to the hill, one at 283 metres and the higher at 290 metres. We passed a few walkers en route, all making the most of this early spring day.

Largo Law summit from the bealach, with the trig just visible. NO4204

Looking eastwards, Craig Rock looked inviting, a much smaller summit at just 235 metres, but lumpier and more interesting than its taller, much more popular neighbour. Access to this rock seems easiest from LahillCraig so I will have to look into this for another walk.

Craig Rock from Largo Law. NO4204

For now we made the final bid for the summit and another Fife trigpoint for me.

Largo Law summit. NO4204

I'm not sure why I didn't go the few extra feet to bag the next gridsquare north; perhaps I was preoccupied with our mission of locating Cargill's conventicle site or perhaps I was looking for somewhere sheltered to drink y last cup of tea from my trusty flask. At any rate I didn't photograph that square either, which means a walk is in order to combine at least two neighbouring gridsquares. Pretending to be Covenanters in search of a good secret place to hold a conventicle (field service) out of view of the King's dragoons, we viewed potential sites and finally decided on the site below.

Possible conventicle site. NO4205 (but taken from NO4204)

The only information I have states that the famous Covenanter, Donald Cargill, preached on or near Largo Law on 24th October 1680. These meetings had to be held in secret as they were deemed to be illegal and anyone found attending faced the prospect of imprisonment, prosecution or even death. Charles II's dragoons were on the constant hunt for Covenanters (those who fiercely defended their right to worship as per their conscience dictated, maintaining that Christ, not the monarch, was the Head of the Church). Many such meetings were held in Fife with different ministers conducting the services. Thousands regularly attended. With a handsome reward on his head, Donald Cargill was hotly pursued by the King's dragoons and escaped their clutches on many occasions. He was finally apprehended at Covington Mill in Lanarkshire on 12th July 1681 by a party of dragoons led by James Irving of Bonshaw (who got the reward). 

View of Craig Rock from summit of Largo Law. NO4204.

After our final refreshments had been consumed, we descended via our route up and then headed westwards, having decided to curtail our original route, given that we had extended it on our main road trudge earlier.

We headed towards Largo Home Farm where there is an old dovecot and an old tower.

Sir Andrew Wood's Tower, Largo Home Farm. NO4103

The Tower is a scheduled monument in the grounds of the ruins of Largo House and is the last surviving fragment of the medieval Largo House, built in 1491. Largo House, complete with moat, was built by Sir Andrew Wood on the site of an earlier castle and was demolished around 1750 when the current Largo House was built. Originally there would have been four corner towers to the house. 

Sir Andrew Wood was a naval hero, known as the Scottish Nelson. He was Admiral to James III and 1V. He had two ships The Flower and The Yellow Carvel.

We could not get any closer to the Tower, but I think there is maybe a footpath that runs closer to it than the one we were on.

We entered Keil's Den and headed immediately south, following the footpath high above the Keil Burn until we descended to cross via the footbridge.

Keil Den and Keil Burn. NO4103

Walking back to the car, we passed a few creative installations, not least the statue of Robinson Crusoe. We had certainly travelled through the centuries on our walk today.

Robinson Crusoe Statue, Lower Largo. NO4202

Malagan Sculpture, Lower Largo. NO4202.

Number of new gridsquares: 8
Number of miles walked: 7
Number of centuries virtually travelled:  5
Number of visual man-made reminders of 500 years: 2
Walk worth repeating: not in its entirety, but Largo Law could be omitted and walk adapted to include all of Keill's Den. Closer view of Largo House would be good.