In danger and delight of frostbite - Glenduckie to Newburgh - 1st December 2019

It was time for a long walk and a glorious day, full of frost and sunshine with a nip in the air; my favourite sort of day.

I parked at a small parking spot off the A913 near Glenduckie. Tim and I had parked here when we did Norman's Law in February. Today I was going to head in the opposite direction Or was I? I can't now remember why I set off in one direction and turned round to go the other way round, but I know I did. I crossed the A913, walked up the road to Glenduckie and stopped in my tracks, turned round and went the other way, clockwise. Perhaps it was my eagerness to reach a new gridsquare as soon as possible.

I soon went 'under' a railway bridge. This time it was part of the erstwhile Newsburgh and North Fife Railway. The line was just over 13 miles in length and inked Newburgh with St Fort. It opened in 1901 and closed in 1964. For more information about the line see here.

Former railway bridge at Dunbog. NO2818

The sun hung low and shone faintly through the trees onto the glistening road.

Approaching Dunbog. NO2818

I looked back to glorious lighting over Norman's Law.

Norman's Law from NO2818

NO2818 was turning out to be a contender for top ten gridsquares in Fife. I happened next upon a little cemetery, nestled quietly amongst the trees. I spent a few moments wandering between the graves, absorbing history and sunshine and autumn.

Dunbog cemetery. NO2818

Apparently Dunbog house once stood here on the site of the Preceptory of Gadvan. What a fascinating name. The preceptory and former church belonged to Balmerino Abbey. At the Reformation the church became the parish church until 1803 when a later church was built to the south-east. I think this is now a dwelling house. The name Gadvan remains a mystery. I'd hoped it was some ancient knight of the order of Sir Arthur, but apparently not. The 'gad' element probably refers to the type of willow used for basket making, whilst the 'van' element is unknown.

I photographed the later church as I walked past, and then Dunbog Farm.

Dunbog Church. NO2817

Dunbog Farm. NO2817

I walked the length of NO2817, passing a perfectly formed U-haped loch en route to the next gridsquare.

U-shaped loch near Dunbog.from NO2817. (Loch actually in NO2717)

As I followed the gentle contours round the western side of Dunbog Hill, I looked westwards to reedbeds I remembered seeing with Tim in July on another walk. We had discussed their merit as a bird reserve and decided it was good! Now all we needed was probably lots of cash and the power of persuasion to get however owned the land to sell it to us for a pittance.

Reedbeds near Lindores. NO2716.

I was in this dream world where Tim and I owned our own bird reserve with Bitterns and Bearded Tits, Water Rail, Little Egrets, perhaps a Spotted and even a Little Crake, when I heard the sound of a cycle bell behind me. A cheery chap greeted me as he cycled with ease up the hill. "I just love mornings like this," he shouted. "I did the same route yesterday, but it was just too nice to stay indoors today, so I decided to do it the other way round instead." I dittoed his enthusiasm and my heart felt gladdened for this brief encounter. I love meeting such positive, life embracing people. Far too often people are focused on the negative; sometimes we don't even know we're doing it, we're drawn into it, like a fly to a spider's web so that before we know it, we are entangled in negativity which we didn't even see coming. That's how I feel about work sometimes (most of the time actually!)

Where I met the cyclist. NO2816

I'd no doubt the cheery cyclist would not be going the same way as me for long as I was striding out to the top of Dunbog Hill. I hadn't done this on my walk with Tim in July as it is totally gratuitous and unless you are collecting trigpoints, there is no point in wandering gratuitously uphill, unless of course the view is worth it.

Dunbog trigpoint. NO2816

As you can see from the photo, the trigpoint is a little damaged. There was certainly a good view from here. The photo shows the view westwards to Lindores Loch.

Lindores Loch from Dunbog Hill NO2816

Having bagged my trig, I descend the way I'd come and then took the path Tim and I had taken in July down to Lindores Loch, only this time, like the cyclist, I was doing it the other way round.

Descending to Lindores Loch. NO2716

At the B937 I was turning the opposite direction to the one I'd been with Tim - right, not left. I walked past the Lodge and realised I didn't now need to walk along the windy road, which was a relief; there was a footpath through the woods here.

Lindores Lodge. NO2716

I took a photograph of the Loch before turning onto the footpath. I saw Wigeon, Tufted Duck, Mute Swan, Mallard and Moorhen on the Loch.

Lindores Loch. NO2716

The path runs parallel to the B937 until it emerges at its junction with the A913. It is a lovely path through mixed woodland.

Lindores Woodland. NO2616

Emerging onto the A913 was not pleasant, but my walk along this busy road was short-lived. Soon I turned left towards Grange of Lindores where I crossed a modern railway bridge.

Railway bridge at Grange of Lindores. NO2516

I went to look at Abdie Church, but resisted the temptation to go and see the ruins of a much older church at the western most banks of Lindores Loch and not far from where I was. This would definitely be something to return to. I haven't been able to find out why the church is called Abdie and not Grange of Lindores. I can only assume the village used to be called Abdie.

Abdie Parish Church. NO2516

I walked to a T junction and turned right into the village of Grange of Lindores and then left at a Y-shaped junction to join the B936.

Y-shaped junction at Grange of Lindores. NO2516

It was an uphill slog for a bit until I turned right again towards Ormiston Farm. I'm always glad to get off the road. I just can't enjoy walking when you're anticipating having to pull over for traffic all the time.

Road to Ormiston Farm. Ormiston Farm Cottages on left. NO2416

The world continued to be soaked in sunshine with not a cloud in the sky; a truly serene day and I was loving that serenity and the Adrenalin induced by the sense of exploration. I don't need to climb Everest or row across the Atlantic or come up with some other extreme 'first'; I'm happy concocting my own walks and not following somebody else's route. That gives me enough Adrenalin, plus looking for benchmarks, flora and fauna and a wealth of history besides.

Such was my state of mind as I walked along this farm road, pausing to say hello to a large herd of sheep.

Sheep at Ormiston Farm. Looking towards Grange of Lindores. NO2416

I spied a Grey Wagtail just before Ormiston Farm, which was a lovely surprise. There are a few burns hereabouts I suppose. As I passed Ormiston Farm, a farmer drove past on his quad bike with his two kids and collie. He stopped to say hello and I checked that I was going in the right direction. I wasn't. As I've said before, I don't like it when people ask where I'm heading because I often don't know. This time I did though; I knew I was heading towards Newburgh and he pointed me in the right direction.

I hadn't long turned onto the path he'd shown me when he drove up behind me again. "I notice you've got binoculars," he said"Have you seen any rare birds round here?" Delighted to have found someone interested enough to have taken time out from his busy day to make a diversion to ask me, I told him I'd seen tree Sparrow and Grey Wagtail, which, though not 'rare' in themselves were always a joy to see and that Tree Sparrow is is national decline. I wish I'd known when talking to him that it is in fact one of five species with a long-term decline of 90% or more. That is really worrying and so very encouraging to have seen it here. He said he was trying to make his farm more biodiverse and would be interested to know if any 'rare' species were seen here. I said I would let him know if I saw anything really rare as he didn't seem interested in the meagre sparrow and wagtail.

Heartened by this conversation, I continued on the path as far as it allowed, to the gates of Clatchard Craig Quarry, a bit of a scar on the landscape.

Clatchard Craig Quarry. N02417

Here I turned left and straight up Ormiston Hill from whence a splendid view of the Tay is beheld.

Newburgh, the Tay and Norman's Law in the distance. From NO2317

It might be a splendid view of the Tay, and my heart might be pounding with ecstasy within my chest, but it wouldn't do for my requisite photograph of NO2317. I needed something more local, and, in this case, more mundane.

Descending to Newburgh from Ormiston Hill. NO2317

I had made my mind up to have lunch by the shores of the Tay. It was quite late for me to be eating lunch at 1.20 pm, but I just hadn't found a suitable spot before. It's always quite difficult finding somewhere relatively comfort to sit. My criteria for lunch are as follows:

1) Between 12 noon and 1 pm.
2) Somewhere comfy to sit
3) With a view
4) Somewhere sheltered and quiet
5) With no-one else in sight as far as possible
6) With nothing unsightly or foul-smelling in view or in the air

Today's lunch spot fulfilled only no 3 of my criteria. I perched on a cold step, although you could argue my posterior was warmed by the comfort of my trusty red foam sheet that lives in my rucksack for such occasions (also useful for crossing barbed wire fences). I was in full view of many dog walkers, thus 4) and 5) and possibly 6) were being breached and obviously, being 1.20 pm no 1 had also been breached. Still, no 3) made up for it!

Pier at Newburgh, NO2318

I rushed my lunch, for all the reasons above, but mainly because my fingers were too cold to remain out of my gloves for long, then proceeded eastwards. A strange figure took my eye in the fields on the hill to my right.

The Newburgh Bear from NO2318

The bear was cut for a community project in 1980 and  is believed to be a depiction of a stone called the bear stone,which was originally set into the abbot’s residence at nearby Lindores Abbey (another place I must visit). For more information about the bear, see here.

I photographed a bench for NO2418, positioned in a more suitable lunch spot than the one I had chosen!

Bench by the Pow of Lindores. NO2418

Apparently vessels used to lie here on their way up river to Perth. From at least 1600 a ferry used to cross the Tay between Lindores to Errol on the opposite side. See Canmore's excellent site for more details.

From here I followed the path inland, passing Parkhill Mill, crossing the road and turning south towards Old Parkhill.

Parkhill Mill. NO2418

Old Parkhill. NO2418

I had seen quite a few people walking today and stopped to speak to most of them. Of course, naturally I seek solitude on such occasions. I don't mind meeting people walking in the opposite direction because I know I'm going to get rid of them quickly, but it's a bit more awkward if you're kind of going the same pace as someone walking in the same direction. Do you keep pace with them and chat? Not a good option, but does it look rude to stroll on them past them with not much more than passing the time of day with them? I'm never sure and usually judge from the reaction to my initial greeting as I casually walk past them or let them overtake me (probably my preferred option).

Today, I stopped to speak to a couple with a dog (I forget which breed). We discussed which way the Fife Coast path went as it had turned inland. I explained that my map was old and didn't show the Fife Coast Path so I wasn't sure, but was just going to follow my nose. I overtook them, thinking they might overtake me whilst I was engaged in photography somewhere, but, in fact, I didn't see them again.

I walked across a stubble field to Old Parkhill, where some workers were busy with noisy machinery and I waved hello to them.

Stubble field from Old Parkhill, looking towards Parkhill. NO2418

The views were glorious on this perfect autumn day.

Newburgh and River Tay from NO2518

But what was this I beheld before me? A ruined castle? How come I'd not noticed this on my pre-walk reccie?

Ballinbreich Castle from NO2518

I consulted my map and discovered it must be Ballinbreich Castle, which is actually in NO2720 and not on my walk today - but another time . . .

For my requisite photo, I turned to the shade and the disused quarry on Silver Hill.

Disused quarry, Silver Hill. NO2518

I was loving this amble along the Tay, albeit at some distance, but that allowed for expansive views and the nip in the air was invigorating. I walked on towards Silver Hill with its line of Pine Trees.

Pine Woodland on Silver Hill. NO2618

The sunlight filtered through the sparse trees, creating a stunning dappled effect.

Silver Hill Woodland. NO2619

The islands on the Tay were distinctly visible from up here. What a perfectly beautiful place to be grazing.

Grazing on Higham Hill. NO2619

Grazing on Higham Hill. NO2719

Just before Old Higham the path turned inland once more and I was sad to be leaving the coastal views, but glad to be nearing my car after nearly 12 miles out in the cold. A path turned towards the coast from here, pointing towards Ballinbreich Castle, so I knew where to return to at a future date.

I passed Old Higham Farm, glowing in the late afternoon sun and then, in the next gridsquare, Higham Farm Cottages.

Old Higham Farm. NO2719

Higham Farm Cottages. NO2718

Now I was back where I'd started, where I'd turned back over five hours before. I seemed to have been walking for much longer than five hours, but I usually cover about 2.5 miles in an hour, so that worked out about right. It had been one of my favourite walks with plenty to return to - perhaps on a warmer day. The last photo of the day goes to Glenduckie Hill, guarding the village of Glenduckie and absorbing the last of the winter's day's apricity.

Glenduckie Hill from NO2719

Number of new gridsquares: 12 (I had first bagged 4 others on previous occasions)
Number of miles walked: 11.7
Walk worth repeating: YES, omitting ascent to Dunbog trig, visiting Abdie old church, Lindores Abbey. Another walk will have to include Ballinbreich Castle and adjoining squares.
Highlights: sunshine and frost, Fife Coast Path, Tree Sparrows, Grey Wagtail, meeting enthusiastic farmer, path at Lindores Loch. autumn colours and lighting.

Newburgh to Abernethy - 21/03/2019

I knew today's walk would only partially be in Fife, the other half being in Perthshire, but I wanted to include Lumbennie Hill trigpoint and visit Abernethy Cafe, as well as create a circular route, so I had little option but to resort to wandering in Perthshire (the only disadvantage to which being, of course, that I am currently bagging Fife girdsquares - just in case anyone is reading this who is unaware of this fact and is horrified that I can speak apparently so disparagingly of a beautiful county). Imagine doing Perthshire gridsquares - now that WOULD be a challenge, one that would last a lifetime I am sure.

Anyway,back to today's walk, which started in Newburgh. I parked at the Fife Coast car park on the west side of the village and made my way to the coast, or, more accurately, the River Tay. I love the way the map is dotted with names here for all the sand banks, which, of course, are not always visible - Kerewhip Bank, Wonder Bank, Reckit Lady Bank . . . These must have been named by navigators of days gone by, who knew these waters like the back of their hand.

Slip at Newburgh. NO2318

Mugdrum Island lies in the middle of the Tay here. It is visible as a long beige line in the photos, being the reedbed. The reeds were once used for thatching, and until 1926 there was a farm here, growing cereals, potatoes and turnips. It is now a nature reserve. But my favourite fact about this place is that a two headed kitten was born here in the 19th century; the Laing Museum in Newburgh apparently preserves the stuffed body thereof - now there's a reason to return here!

South Deep with Mugdrum Island in background. NO2218

The path here hugs the coastline, so I did not get to see the Mugdrum Cross or the woodland and pond at Mugdrum - another time maybe.

South Deep The other side of Mugdrum Island is known as North Deep. NO2118

Coltsfoot is unusual in that its cheery flower appears before its leaves, as if it wants to get in there before anyone else and be first to herald the spring. I salute you Coltsfoot.

Coltsfoot

Three things happened after NO2118: the footpath came to an end, the map showed a Roman Legionary Fortress and I entered Perthshire. I got soggy feet for a while persuading myself that the footpath really did continue into the reedbed. I finally gave up and resigned myself to some soggy field walking instead. Which meant I could look for the Roman Legionary Fortress. There is not much left of this once extensive fortress which was very important at its time.

The northern rampart of Carpow Roman Legionary Fortress. NO2018 (Perthshire)

Carpow Fort  was situated at the confluence of the rivers Tay and Earn. 

It was a large fortress with an area of thirty acres occupied by two legions at different times, Legio II Augusta and Legio VI Victrix, and thus of solid, permanent construction using stone, brick and tiles.

The fort was occupied from the late second century AD until the early third century AD. The site of the fort has not been comprehensively excavated but it is believed to have served as a naval supply depot for Roman forces in the central lowlands. Its occupation also coincided with the campaigns of Septimus Severus in the area.

However, its site on the southern side of the Tay estuary is incompatible with its use as a base for Severan offensive operations to the north and, along with other evidence, it is more likely that the fortress was built under Commodus in 185 to support his campaigns.

Excavations of the site between 1964 and 1979 discovered coins dating from the rule of Hadrian, a bath house and a granary. (Information from Wikipedia).

After this I did not take significant photographs until I re-entered Fife.The fort is worth returning to, but there was no path until I reached Abernethy and it was not pleasant or interesting walking through fields.

After my much appreciated Empire Biscuit in the Berryfields Tearoom, where the proprietress asked from whence I had travelled and to where was I headed, I travelled south past the Water Works and along the tumbling Nethy Burn to The Linns where I headed eastwards across the Ochil Hills. Here I briefly saw a Red Squirrel, which sadly darted away before I had chance to photograph it.

East Lomond from Cordon Hill. NO2015

I was re-entering Fife and looked in vain for a physical sign that this was so,but the boundary is marked only on the map and not on the ground, not even by a burn; who decides these things? Revelling in being back in Fife and photographing mode, I snapped a boring photograph of the track to celebrate.

Cordon Hill Forest Track - NO2015

I could have curtailed my walk by two or three miles at this point by continuing eastwards for quarter of a mile, but where's the fun in that when you can extend it to gain more gridsquares and when you've got all the time in the world to yourself with no obligations to be elsewhere? Oh, the joy of days off work and of solitary walking!

So, having found my footpath, I headed southwest to Turflundie Wood and then south-east to South Colzie. I'd been walking along the Perthshire/Fife border but suddenly broke off into the wilds of Fife.

South Colzie in the distance. Back in Fife proper. NO2014

This area is known as Pitmeddie Forest and some of it is densely forested, other parts are intensely farmed. I approached Raemore Farm, and then Pitmeddie Farm, still following a good farm track.

Raemore Farm. NO2114

Pitmedden Farm. NO2214

Almost a year later, writing this, I have vague recollections of sitting on a pile of tyres near here with a drink from the flask; I can't remember now where I had my picnic proper.

At Pitmedden I turned back on myself, heading northwest back up to Seven Gates where I would have ended up if I'd walked a quarter of a mile instead of an extra two or three. The forest walk was pleasant enough though.

Pitmedden Forest. NO2214

Seven Gates, Pitmedden  Forest. NO2015.

I'm guessing it's called Seven Gates as there must b e that number of footpaths converging here and probably that had more historical significance than it does today.

I turned eastwards now and was starting to get both apprehensive and excited about Lumbennie Hill trigpoint. Excited because I always get excited about entering new territory and a rush of adrenaline about achieving something I've set out to achieve; apprehensive because on my (admittedly) old OS map there were two lines of pylons marked, a trigpoint, and no path, and that always sows a small seed of anxiety in my mind. Would there be a path? (There often is, despite not being marked on the map).

There wasn't.

'Path' to Lumbennie Hill trigpoint. NO2115

I looked in despair at the rough terrain I'd have to negotiate in order to reach my trig, which, on top of what was already going to be a 12 mile walk, I deemed to be a step too far. I'd leave it for another time.

Feeling somewhat downcast, I trudged along and was glad I was looking downwards because a small warty creature lumbered across my path, followed swiftly by another, then another and soon I realised the path was covered in toads of various colours and sizes, most busy mounting other toads as this was their breeding season.

My disappointment immediately dissipated at this delightful sight and I bent down to take a closer look and take a portrait photograph of each and every one. Whilst I love these creatures, they are joint first place in my daughter Lorna's affections (the other being what she insists on calling the Piecrust crab). She would be extremely envious of me right now.

An orgy of toads at Pitmedden. NO2215

Stepping ever so carefully and anxious lest a less cautious person should wander by on vehicle or foot, I tiptoed my way down towards the Woodriffe Road, admiring the toads' comical appearances as I passed each one. How utterly delightful to be so oblivious on what is going on around you whilst you fulfill your life's purpose - in this case, to mate and, arguably to give delight to observers such as I.

Pitmedden Forest Track. NO2215

Delightful though they were, they did not qualify as a Geograph for the square they were in, so I quickly snapped a much less interesting photograph for that purpose and moved on as quickly as the toads would allow me.

Lochmill Loch. NO2215

It was far from being monotonous in terms of scenery though. Firstly, Lochmill Loch provided a nice distraction from the dominant coniferous forest and then the distant hills brushed in snow were also a pleasant diversion for the eyes.

View north from Lochmill Loch. NO2215

At the T-junction, I turned left, back towards Newburgh and eager now to reach Macduff's Cross, marked in Old English Text on the map.

T-junction, Woodriffe Road. NO2216

A footpath sign directs the pedestrian left or right at MacDuff's Cross and there is an interesting history here. The old cart track was used by Roman patrols, by Macduff when fleeing Macbeth, by Queen Victoria and as a turnpike. The path was declared a pedestrian right of way by courts in 1997.

The remains of MacDuff's cross are thought to date from at least 1059 CE and allegedly mark the spot where the clan MacDuff, in return for its chief's services against Macbeth, was granted rights of sanctuary and composition for murder done in hot blood. This legend suggests a penalty of nine cows and a heifer for such a crime. Shortly after the death of Macbeth, Kikng of Scotland, Malcolm III of Scotland was also supposed to have bestowed on the Thane of Fife the privilege of ordaining theKing, and leading the charge in battle. The cross was originally dedicated to Saint Magider and smashed to pieces by a mob of fanatical followers of John Knox in 1559. It was a place where William Ballingall suggested "arch-criminals claimed the protection of the Law of Clan Macduff".

The cross was said to have been marked with a "metrical inscription, in a strange half-Latin jargon, the varying copies of which, still preserved, have given much occupation to antiquaries". After studying two early translations, Walter Wood suggested that it read "An altar for those whom law pursues, a hall for those whom strife pursues, being without a home. Who makest thy way hither, to thee this paction becomes a harbour. But there is hope of peace only when the murder has been committed by those born of my grandson. I set free the accused, a fine of a thousand drachms from his lands. On account of Macgridin and of this offering, take once for all the cleansing of my heirs beneath this stone filled with water."

(Information from Wikipedia)

MacDuff's Cross, Newburgh. NO2216

From here, I walked back down the road enjoying views of the silvery Tay as I went and pausing to take my final photograph of the day before returning to my car.

River Tay westwards from Newburgh. NO2217

House and letterbox at Woodriffe, Newburgh. NO227

Number of new gridsquares: 11
Number of miles walked: 12.2
Number of trigpoints almost reached: 1
Number of toads seen: numerous
Highlights: Toads, Red Squirrel, Roman Legionary Fortress, MacDuff's Cross, Mugdrum Island
Walk worth repeating: not in its entirety, but could have a car at Newburgh and one at Abernethy and adapt and shorten walk to suit. Return to bag Lumbennie Hill trig