As luck would have it - Lucklaw Hill from Balmullo - 29th February 2020

Today I hoped to bag two trigpoints on a figure of eight walk from Balmullo, another place I have never been before. I managed to park on a minor road and decided I'd do the north circuit first, which meant climbing Lucklaw Hill for my first trig. There were several benchmarks marked along an old boundary as I climbed the hill, but I didn't find a single one. I assume either the crumbling wall has been rebuilt over the years and the benchmarks subsequently moved, or the benchmarks were overgrown with moss or the original substrate has been removed altogether. I guess I'll never know.

Road at Lucklawhill. NO4221

Lucklawhill is a 'suburb' of Balmullo as well as being the name of the hill, although the hill is spelt Lucklaw Hill in two words and is situated in a different gridsquare.

Ascending Lucklaw Hill and where I searched for the benchmarks on wall on left. NO4221

In days gone by that old wall would have replaced an even older hedge, as evidenced by this glorious coppiced tree.

Coppiced tree on Lucklaw Hill. NO4221

It didn't take long to reach the 190 metre high summit, from where, on this glorious fluffly cloud day, I had great views.

View east from Lucklaw Hill towards Leuchars and Guardbridge. NO4121

View west from Lucklaw Hill NO4121

I descended down the west side of the hill towards Ardlogie House. The distant Lomond Hills had a dusting of snow on their summits.

Descending Lucklaw Hill on the west. Lomond Hills in the distance. NO4121

I was in NO4021 for all of 349 feet, so took a very unsatisfactory picture of Ardlogie House.

Ardlogie House. NO4021

I emerged at a crossroads at which I took the south-east fork which was signposted Community Woodland Cuplahills. The signpost was my only opportunity to photograph NO4020, but it looks an interesting square. I shall have to return another time to investigate the House in the Hollow (just because I like the name) and Logie Church, both of which I was disappointed not to be visiting today.

Community Woodland, Cuplahills. NO4020

One of the reasons I love my exploratory walks is discovering places like this which are not necessarily marked on the map and which you would never guess were there just by looking at the map. Of course, this is especially the case given that my map is now 16 years out of date. Also of course, the converse is also sometimes true; you see somewhere on the map which looks as if it's going to be exciting and isn't, or, in my 2004 map case, isn't even there any more.

These woodlands were a nice surprise, however, although I did not veer off the path to explore any other paths therein.

Path in Cuplahills. NO4020

Above two photos: Near Cuplahills. NO4120

At a cottage I approached another crossroads; by the end of the walk I would have walked along all four forks. It was where the first, smaller circuit of the figure of eight met the return route, so I could have drastically curtailed my walk and headed back to the car here.

Naturally I didn't; I pressed on up Kirk Hill, where I was back in NO4020, having thought my earlier photographic opportunity would be my only one!

Trees on Kirk Hill. NO4020

As I walked through the woodland, I began to hear the sound of horses and, when I came out into the open, saw a hunting party heading south down a minor road. My heart sank. I detest foxhunting, or even the pretence of it which this ostensibly was. I also don't like my peace to be shattered or to have to worry about being trampled by a group of snarling dogs and heavy footed horses along narrow footpaths. Still, they seemed to be heading in the opposite direction, so maybe I'd be alright.

I emerged onto the minor road where I'd seen the horses.

Near Craigsanquhar. NO4019

As I walked down the road I watched a pick up truck turn right down the track I was going to go and several people got out, all dressed in tweeds. Oh no, I was going to bump into the horses for sure and didn't really want to make small talk with these people.

Track near Craigsanquhar. NO3919

I needn't have worried. Two of the truck's occupants sat in the car waiting whilst the third stomped off into the distance ahead of me down the track. I was soon to meet more people waiting in cars so I asked them the question to which there was an obvious answer. "Is there a hunt on today?" "Yes, but you'll be OK," they reassured me. I asked if they knew from which direction the horses would be coming and one lady replied that 'it depended on whether they find a fox or not.' Evidence that this was not just a foxless hunt.

As I set off again, the horses cam towards me with the dogs and I was forced to wait for them to enter another field and gallop up Forret Hill whilst the bugler blew hard on his horn. This fiasco left a sour taste in my mouth and stomach and mind for the rest of the day, particularly as one of the riders paused to advise me to take care walking as there were still more horses to come.

Hunt near Forret Hill NO3919

After this disturbing encounter I walked on cautiously, fearing the approach of horses and wondering how I could possibly step aside down a two foot wide very muddy track edged with brambles and scrub. Fortunately I didn't encounter any more horses.

Track near Forret Hill. NO3819

I paused at this wider bit of track to eat my lunch as I had not stopped earlier for a tea break and was four miles into my walk.Then I continued to my third crossroads of the day and this time went straight across towards Kedlock Feus. This was the bit of a walk that, should it be repeated, I could omit. I was adding an extra bit on purely to gain more gridsquares - two to be precise, and one of them turned out to be the most difficult square of the day.

Crossroads near Kedlock Feus. NO3819

At Torr of Kedlock I looked for the marked footpath up Kedlock Hill.  Ah, there it was, past some horses and Stensons Knowe. Apparently Stenson is a reduced form of Stevenson, but no-one knows who Stevenson was or why he or she should have a hill named after them.

Horses at Torr of Kedlock. NO3719

Stensons Knowe. NO3719

As I approached the woodland at Kedlock Hill, the path deteriorated and eventually ended abruptly at a barbed wire fence, despite being shown as a through path on the newer version of the OS Explorer Map. I was forced to cross the barbed wire fence using my trust red foam mat to protect myself as I could see no alternative route on this occasion. As I said earlier, however, this part of the walk need not be repeated, which is a shame as the woodland was attractive.

Kedlock Hill NO3718

The path appeared again and became a rack which led to Kedlock Farm Cottages and onto the minor road I'd left earlier.

Road south from Kedlock. NO3818

I now had to make a decision. Was I going to make another detour to bag the second trig of the day at Myrecairnie Hill? I had originally intended to do so, but my spirits were somewhat deflated after the hunt encounter and I wasn't 100% sure how to tackle the hill. There was no obvious way up it. I would leave it for another day. Perhaps the approach from the west would be both easier and shorter. I would research it for another time.

So, having turned my back on Myrecairnie Hill, I walked down the road, casting a glance at my rejected hill, crossed the Moonzie Burn and entered NO3717 where I took a photo of a farm entrance as a subject for the square.

Myrecairnie Hill, the one I didn't climb, from NO3717

Damside of Foodie. NO3717

I was looking forward to getting off the road, as usual. I had been walking down it for a mile before I turned off towards Foodie, a farm which announced itself rather grandly I thought.

Driveway to Foodie Farm. NO3717

A car passed me as I walked down the drive and I tried hard to look as if I knew exactly where I was going, although, as I drew closer to the farm I couldn't see which direction the track took. I am so grateful for Memory Map which allows you to see exactly where you are on the map and gave me confidence to walk to the left of the building ahead of me and onto the path to Middlefoodie.

This was a pleasant part of the walk, past Foodie Hill and another doocot.

Foodie Hill. NO3817

Above three photos: Foodie Doocot. NO3817

I spent some time photographing the old doocot as it made a picturesque monochrome subject and then continued on this well worn path eastwards.

I was walking uphill now towards yet another benchmark. I was beginning to wonder if I'd written down all the wrong co-ordinates for today's benchmarks as I had not found a single one and I'd copied the grid references for about 20 into my GPS. I was finally to get lucky as I reached a gate and found the requisite benchmark on the other side of the gatepost.

Now which was was I to go? I turned briefly in the wrong direction, up Foodie Hill, which would have been nice, but totally the wrong direction, then worked out I had to go back through the gate I'd just closed, the one with the benchmark on the gatepost.

Foodie Gatepost and benchmark. NO3817

Todhall Farm straddles two gridsquares and I've said before that I don't like it when this happens. I don't like photographing a subject which is not clearly in a particular gridsquare and don't usually do it, but there was nothing else specific to take, so I felt forced to do so on this occasion. Oh well, I was only 'breaking' my own rules.

Todhall Farm. NO3917

 Craiglug made a much nicer subject, but was in a different gridsquare. I photographed it anyway (sometimes I forget I'm 'allowed' to do that'!)

Craiglug from NO3917

The path had become exceptionally muddy and I was muttering under my breath as I slipped and slided my way down the field to Middlefoodie. There was a path leading left here which I was almost tempted to take as it looked a more appealing route. It was also slightly longer, so next time I could do this one instead of the gratuitous Kedlock Hill one.

At Dun Robin I was desperate for a rest after all the hard slog through the mud, so I sat with the last of my flask and enjoyed the sunshine from the comfort of a low wall.

Dun Robin, my afternoon tea break stop. NO4017

Then I continued to Beechwood and photographed a silhouetted line of trees on the horizon.

Tree silhouettes near Craigfoodie. NO4017

I was approaching Dairsie, but would be turning off towards Craigfoodie before entering the village. I was still in the same gridsquare as Dairsie though, so took a photograph for NO4117.

Turn off to Craigfoodie near Dairsie. NO4117

Dairsie from near Craigfoodie. NO4117

Easter Craigfoodie sat elevated on a small hill and made an ideal feature for my next gridsquare before reaching the A9124 along which I had to walk for a while before turning off again at Thai Teak.

Easter Craigfoodie.NO4118

 Before reaching the A914, however, I could see a great scar ahead of me and realised this was the other side, the southern side of Lucklaw Hill. I'd had no idea it was a quarry, even though it is marked as such even on my old map. It really is quite ugly from this perspective.

Lucklaw Hill and quarry with Balmullo on right from NO4118

Walking along the A914 was not at all pleasant, but there was a wide enough grass verge along which to walk and I did spot my second benchmark of the day, on a gatepost at Pittormie, swiftly followed by my third at Thai Teak just before I turned off.

A914 and Piottormie gatepost. NO4118

Moss-filled benchmark at Thai Teak. NO4119

Thai Teak and A914. NO4119

I turned left here and then right where I gained a quick glimpse of Pitcullo Castle, a late 16th century three storey high house which has been restored.

Pitcullo Castle. NO4119

I noticed another dovecot mentioned on the map here. there had also been one at Todhall Farm. Much as I'd like to photograph them all, I don't think I'm enough of a pigeon/dove enthusiast to warrant making that another project, in fact I'm sure I'm not. But does one have to be such to appreciate these historic buildings? Hmmm . . .

I continued through Set Hill woodland.

Woodland at Sett Hill. NO4119

Then I was back into NO4120 and where I'd briefly contemplated doing only the top half of the figure of 8. I would now be completing the whole no 8! Despite the slightly cloudier day now, the views were still stunning.

Guardbridge from Cuplahills. NO4120

I walked wearily down this busy track.There had evidently been quite a lot of building work done here recently and so the traffic had increased. I passed one lady who said she was rushing back before the rain began. There was certainly an ominous looking cloud approaching, but fortunately it did not open until I was safely back in the car.

Balmullo from the south.NO4120

I had only one gridsquare left, and little energy. I found it hard to be inspired by anything I was passing. Soon I found myself in the village of Balmullo, walking through a housing estate and fast approaching my car. Aha, there was the recreation ground. Was I still within the requisite gridsquare? Yes? Snap, all done!

Balmullo Recreation Ground. NO4220

Number of new gridsquares: 19
Number of miles walked: 12.6
Walk worth repeating: Not in its entirety. I'd like to visit Logie and NO4020 and devise a walk round that area and also the path at Middlefoodie. The whole route would need chopping into several shorter, revised walks.
Highlights: Some of the views from the tops.

To trespass or not to trespass - Largoward - 23rd February 2020

I had started to drive through the village of Largoward every week on my way to orchestra rehearsals at St Andrews. I felt it was time to stop and explore so I devised a circular route starting from the village.

It took a while to find somewhere suitable to park, but I found a small car park off the main road just before exiting the village northwards and donned my walking attire. This always takes a little time. My brother hops out of the car and is immediately ready for the walk. I have a little, almost spiritual, routine which is fine when it's just me, but frustrating for others if they're standing waiting for me. The routine involves switching my GPS on and laying it on top of the car so it can receive a signal whilst I'm putting my boots on. Then I put my rucksack on and clip my camera to the caribiner,  buckle my rucksack, put my binoculars round my neck and finally cow loop my GPS to a strap on the right hand side of my rucksack, place it in one of the side pockets, lock the car door, place the car key in the other side pocket and I'm ready for off! Phew! All in under five minutes - though I've never timed it.

Today's location was unambiguously within NO territory and my first photo was off the tiny church in Largoward.

Largoward Church. NO4607

There was no graveyard here, so I did not linger longer than necessary to take the photograph and then continued northwards to turn right at Cadger's Road towards North Cassingray.

Cadger's Road. NO4707

Just before entering NO4807 I turned left down an overgrown track that led to North Cassingray to take a photograph of NO4708. It was just too temptingly close to resist and, being at the beginning of my walk, I was still bursting with energy and enthusiasm - something that tends to wane after ten miles!

Lathones. NO4708

The village of Lathones lies within this gridsquare so I could photograph it quite easily from the track, and then retrace my steps back to Cadger's Road and my onward trail. My next turn off was also arguably gratuitous, but had as its lure Pepper Knowe trigpoint. The map showed a footpath to the trig, but when I approached I couldn't open the gate and I could see a man and his daughter in the house next to the footpath. Not wanting to climb over the gate in full view, I  enquire about accessing the trigpoint and was assured it was fine to do so by climbing over the gate and probably also the one at the top of the hill.

A concrete path follows the fenceline up to the modest height of 212 and the muddy summit of Pepper Knowe.

Pepper Knowe trigpoint. NO4807

View north from Pepper Knowe. NO4807

I scanned through my binoculars to see if there was an obvious route down to North Baldutho which would save me having to retrace my steps, but I could not see one, so it was back through the mud and down to the road again. At least I'd get to do another gratuitous gridsquare this way. I walked only as far down the track to North Casingray as I needed to in order to enter NO4808 and take a photograph of the farm.

North Cassingray Farm. NO4808

As I continued eastwards, I was surprised to see a thin layer of snow on the road where the sun had not yet reached.

Snow on road to North Cassingray House. NO4807

The road ends at North Cassingray House and becomes a track, and an overgrown one at that. I doubted this was a well used path as I trudged my way over hummock and bog eastwards to Knights Ward (no apostrophe on map). I love finding this seldom used paths; absolutely revel in it. I can't really explain why, just the feeling that few have ventured here, the feeling of being away from it all, of forging my own path which is something I tend to do in life figuratively as well as literally. Sometimes of course, both figuratively and literally, I come across seemingly insurmountable obstacles and have to reconsider my options. That happened once or twice today, but has happened numerous times in a figurative sense in my life.

Footpath to Knights Ward. NO4807

The path became slightly less overgrown in the next gridsquare.

Foothpath to Knights Ward. NO4907

At a crossroads near North Baldutho, I managed to take a wrong turn. It looks so obvious on the map, but there are five ways in which one could go; I had come from one direction, so that left a choice of four, so you can see how I managed to make the mistake and didn't realise it until I'd done exactly 730 feet in the wrong direction and happened to look at my phone map (it's a good job I do this as frequently as I do) and realised my mistake. So, it was a case of back over hummock and bog and back through the gate I'd had difficulty opening and rethinking. It was pretty obvious then which route I had to take - the least obvious one!

At Knights Ward Wood I stopped for a break, sitting on a tree stump and brought out my trusty red flask for a cup of tea. I then dodged in and out of electric fences and avoided a herd of cows on my way to Knights Ward Farm and the minor road.

Approaching Knights Ward Farm. NO5007 

Stuck in the mud at Knights Ward Farm. NO5007

I think I surprised the farmer as I emerged from the footpath as I can't imagine many people use it. He bade me good morning though, but didn't stop to chat. I'd like to have asked him about the old car stuck in the mud at his farm. Perhaps another time.

Once at the minor road, I turned right and walked to the former railway bridge where I found a benchmark.

Benchmark on bridge near Knights Ward. NO500707

Former railway bridge near Knights Ward. NO5007

I have since discovered that a short section of the East Fife Central Railway between Knightsward and Lochty was privately owned and run by farmer John Cameron, who purchased a main line steam engine and operated it here between 1967 to 1992 with a steam museum at Lochty. For more information a photos of the line in use and shortly after its closure, see this Flickr site.

Gillingshill Reservoir soon came into view, straddled annoyingly across two gridsquares. I don't like it when this happens as, purist that I am, I like to know that the subject is slap bang unambiguously within one gridsquare. I'd thought of the loch as being a possible lunch spot, but was glad it was too early as there was nowhere to sit. I saw Tufted Duck at the other end of the loch though, which was a new addition to my day's bird list.

Gillingshill Reservoir. NO5106

Now for a little detective work - how to get up Kellie Law for my second trigpoint of the day. I passed one option, but there was no path marked on my map at that point, so I soldiered on, bravely pursuing a path which looked increasingly unlike to appear the closer I got. This was one of the few times in my experience when a path is shown on my old 2004 map that is not shown on the newer 2014 map, but I did not realise that at the time and was to suffer embarrassment as a result.

The old path to Kellie Law had been well and truly cut off and though there was only a deer fence between it and me, I knew I was not going to be able to scale that fence (though I once did on Islay). Instead I tiptoed stealthily through Gillingshill garden to a small gate and into an orchard where a man was busy tying up his trees. He was to be the second person I startled that day.

Gillingshill Lodge. NO5106

I walked up to him and apologised for intruding and possibly trespassing and asked if it were possible to ascend Kellie Law? He gave me directions back to where I'd come from and the double gate I'd deliberated not used as there was no path marked on my old map. I mentioned this to him and he replied that that must be a very old map I was using as that path had not existed for many years. I didn't think 16 years was that old really, not like the 1800s, but didn't argue the point. Instead I apologised once more, laying it on thickly when he asked how I'd got to where I was and I'd had to admit I'd wandered through a garden. "Best go back the way you came," he said.

I did and eventually found my way into the necessary field where Kellie Law lay temptingly before me. That would be my lunch spot.

Kellie Law. NO5106

Having got into the right field, it was a hop, a skip and a jump to the blowy summit where I sat unsheltered with my well-earned picnic and observed the world from my lofty height.

Looking west from Kellie Law. NO5106

Looking east from Kellie Law. Carnbee Reservoir in foreground. NO5106

Isle of May from Kellie Law. NO5106

The views from here were amazing in all directions, and it was an ideal day for being up here, albeit very cold and windy. I had the place to myself and suspect I often would have given the difficulty I'd found in getting up here. But it was too cold to linger long and I made the decision not to descend to Carnbee Church. When planning the walk I had included that as an optional extra if time and energy permitted. I had already made two diversions and so decided to leave Carnbee for another time. Besides, I like to have a reason for returning.

Back on level ground I retraced my steps as far as the turn off to South Baldutho. I passed a garden gate I'd not noticed on my outward trip. It made me chuckle.

Do not ask for directions. Greenside Cottage. NO5106

They must have had a number of travellers calling for that very reason! Fortunately I did not need to ask for directions; I'd already done that with the man in the orchard. I wandered gaily along, turning towards South Baldutho getting excited about the rivet I was soon to see!

Kellie Law and Gillingside Reservoir. NO5006

I saw nothing new on the choppy reservoir so turned my eyes to the ground in search of the rivet. There it was on the culvert! I say 'there it was' as if it was easy to see. Do not be fooled. I like to think I'm the first person to have seen this rivet in many a year. It was covered in moss and very faint and difficult to photograph, but I think you'll agree it's a beauty.

Culvert near South Baldutho. NO5006

Rivet (just right of white lichen blob) on culvert near South Baldutho. NO5006

I recovered from this excitement and continued westward to an unexpected quarry. This is not mentioned on the new version of the OS map either. It made a good subject for my photograph of this gridsquare though, particularly as I wouldn't be in it for very long.

Belliston Quarry. NO4906

Here I followed the path south and tried to find a way into NO5005, so temptingly close, but could not find an easy way in and I didn't feel like trespassing again! There was no-one around as I came to the entrance to the quarry at the minor road where I turned right and continued westwards for a third of a mile to Gibliston Cottages. Here I turned right again and walked towards Gibliston Farm where a friendly collie came out to see me.

Gibliston. NO4905

Beyond the farm I walked uphill towards Clachreid Ha' Wood, photographing Cunner Law on the way.where a ruin caught my eye. I'm always attracted to ruins.

Cunner Law from NO4905

Walking uphill to Clachreid Ha' Wood. NO4805

A ruin provided an attractive subject for this gridsquare. Apparently the ruin was actually once two small thatched cottages tenanted by agricultural labourers.

Ruin in Clachreid Ha' Wood. NO4805

Isle of May from Clachreid Ha' Wood. NO4805

I'm always glad to see the Isle of May when out walking. It feels like mum is waving to me. We went there for my 50th birthday so it remains a very special place.

At the top of the hill I paused for breath and realised a few diverted steps would lead me into another gridsquare. This is where you have the advantage of walking on your own; you don't have to ask anyone's permission to stride purposelessly off in a direction in which there seems to be no attraction.

Muir Plantation. NO4806

I was thankfully now on level ground and walking through woodland along a very puddly path.

Clachreid Ha' Wood. NO4805

Arboreal Wonder in Clachreid Ha' Wood. NO4805

I would soon be at Kilbrachmont, about which I have talked before.

Approaching Kilbrackmont. NO4705

Kilbrackmont Farm. NO4705

 I loved the ancient 'foggit' (moss-covered) wall I passed walking down Kilbrackmont drive.

Foggit wall near Kilbrackmont. NO4706

Reaching the B941 I turned left and then right past a lodge house. I wasn't sure if I would be trespassing or not to walk past the lodge house, so opted for a slightly long way round, hoping the dotted line shown on my map would, in fact, turn out to be an exiting footpath. It was. Phew! It meant being in NO4605 slightly longer, although I ended up photographing the same thing I'd have photographed if I'd taken the shorter route, a bridge over a burn.

Bridge in Mill Wood near Lathallan Mill. NO4605

I passed a sign for Lathallan Mine Water Treatment Works and decided to investigate. Perhaps there would be another way out instead of having to walk along the road. Although it was a very minor road (white on the map) a few cars passed me whilst walking and, as I've mentioned umpteen times, I do prefer to be solitary if I've chosen to walk that way.

Lathallan Mine Water Treatment Works. NO4606

It was a pleasant enough walk, although there were plenty of off-putting signs about the danger of deep water, but there was no way out at the end of it, so I turned round and walked up the road instead. I passed another ruin, which is not mentioned on the new website I have found - Pastmap. I am assuming it is part of Lathallan Home Farm.

Building near Lathallan Home Farm. NO4606

At a T-junction I turned right, away from Lathallan Home Farm. I was on my own homeward stretch now. I was back to a dismantled railway - the East Fife Central (|or mineral) Railway. Station House was on my left.

Station House, Largoward. NO4606

Former East Fife Central mineral railway at Largoward. NO4606

The East Fife Central Railway was a mineral railway line  that ran from near Leven to Lochty. It was intended to develop extensive coal measures in the area and opened in 1898. Sadly, the line was loss-making from the outset and closed in 1964.

Former railway bridge at Largoward. NO4606

With that, I had photographed my final gridsquare of the day. I approached my final T-junction and wandered wearily back to the car.

Approaching Largoward. NO4607

Number of new gridsquares: 13 (Plus four from a previous walk)
Number of miles walked: 12.8
Walk worth repeating: Without its gratuitous bits and diversions, yes, especially to include Carnbee
Highlights: Kellie Law, lovely old tracks