In danger and delight of frostbite - Glenduckie to Newburgh - 1st December 2019

It was time for a long walk and a glorious day, full of frost and sunshine with a nip in the air; my favourite sort of day.

I parked at a small parking spot off the A913 near Glenduckie. Tim and I had parked here when we did Norman's Law in February. Today I was going to head in the opposite direction Or was I? I can't now remember why I set off in one direction and turned round to go the other way round, but I know I did. I crossed the A913, walked up the road to Glenduckie and stopped in my tracks, turned round and went the other way, clockwise. Perhaps it was my eagerness to reach a new gridsquare as soon as possible.

I soon went 'under' a railway bridge. This time it was part of the erstwhile Newsburgh and North Fife Railway. The line was just over 13 miles in length and inked Newburgh with St Fort. It opened in 1901 and closed in 1964. For more information about the line see here.

Former railway bridge at Dunbog. NO2818

The sun hung low and shone faintly through the trees onto the glistening road.

Approaching Dunbog. NO2818

I looked back to glorious lighting over Norman's Law.

Norman's Law from NO2818

NO2818 was turning out to be a contender for top ten gridsquares in Fife. I happened next upon a little cemetery, nestled quietly amongst the trees. I spent a few moments wandering between the graves, absorbing history and sunshine and autumn.

Dunbog cemetery. NO2818

Apparently Dunbog house once stood here on the site of the Preceptory of Gadvan. What a fascinating name. The preceptory and former church belonged to Balmerino Abbey. At the Reformation the church became the parish church until 1803 when a later church was built to the south-east. I think this is now a dwelling house. The name Gadvan remains a mystery. I'd hoped it was some ancient knight of the order of Sir Arthur, but apparently not. The 'gad' element probably refers to the type of willow used for basket making, whilst the 'van' element is unknown.

I photographed the later church as I walked past, and then Dunbog Farm.

Dunbog Church. NO2817

Dunbog Farm. NO2817

I walked the length of NO2817, passing a perfectly formed U-haped loch en route to the next gridsquare.

U-shaped loch near Dunbog.from NO2817. (Loch actually in NO2717)

As I followed the gentle contours round the western side of Dunbog Hill, I looked westwards to reedbeds I remembered seeing with Tim in July on another walk. We had discussed their merit as a bird reserve and decided it was good! Now all we needed was probably lots of cash and the power of persuasion to get however owned the land to sell it to us for a pittance.

Reedbeds near Lindores. NO2716.

I was in this dream world where Tim and I owned our own bird reserve with Bitterns and Bearded Tits, Water Rail, Little Egrets, perhaps a Spotted and even a Little Crake, when I heard the sound of a cycle bell behind me. A cheery chap greeted me as he cycled with ease up the hill. "I just love mornings like this," he shouted. "I did the same route yesterday, but it was just too nice to stay indoors today, so I decided to do it the other way round instead." I dittoed his enthusiasm and my heart felt gladdened for this brief encounter. I love meeting such positive, life embracing people. Far too often people are focused on the negative; sometimes we don't even know we're doing it, we're drawn into it, like a fly to a spider's web so that before we know it, we are entangled in negativity which we didn't even see coming. That's how I feel about work sometimes (most of the time actually!)

Where I met the cyclist. NO2816

I'd no doubt the cheery cyclist would not be going the same way as me for long as I was striding out to the top of Dunbog Hill. I hadn't done this on my walk with Tim in July as it is totally gratuitous and unless you are collecting trigpoints, there is no point in wandering gratuitously uphill, unless of course the view is worth it.

Dunbog trigpoint. NO2816

As you can see from the photo, the trigpoint is a little damaged. There was certainly a good view from here. The photo shows the view westwards to Lindores Loch.

Lindores Loch from Dunbog Hill NO2816

Having bagged my trig, I descend the way I'd come and then took the path Tim and I had taken in July down to Lindores Loch, only this time, like the cyclist, I was doing it the other way round.

Descending to Lindores Loch. NO2716

At the B937 I was turning the opposite direction to the one I'd been with Tim - right, not left. I walked past the Lodge and realised I didn't now need to walk along the windy road, which was a relief; there was a footpath through the woods here.

Lindores Lodge. NO2716

I took a photograph of the Loch before turning onto the footpath. I saw Wigeon, Tufted Duck, Mute Swan, Mallard and Moorhen on the Loch.

Lindores Loch. NO2716

The path runs parallel to the B937 until it emerges at its junction with the A913. It is a lovely path through mixed woodland.

Lindores Woodland. NO2616

Emerging onto the A913 was not pleasant, but my walk along this busy road was short-lived. Soon I turned left towards Grange of Lindores where I crossed a modern railway bridge.

Railway bridge at Grange of Lindores. NO2516

I went to look at Abdie Church, but resisted the temptation to go and see the ruins of a much older church at the western most banks of Lindores Loch and not far from where I was. This would definitely be something to return to. I haven't been able to find out why the church is called Abdie and not Grange of Lindores. I can only assume the village used to be called Abdie.

Abdie Parish Church. NO2516

I walked to a T junction and turned right into the village of Grange of Lindores and then left at a Y-shaped junction to join the B936.

Y-shaped junction at Grange of Lindores. NO2516

It was an uphill slog for a bit until I turned right again towards Ormiston Farm. I'm always glad to get off the road. I just can't enjoy walking when you're anticipating having to pull over for traffic all the time.

Road to Ormiston Farm. Ormiston Farm Cottages on left. NO2416

The world continued to be soaked in sunshine with not a cloud in the sky; a truly serene day and I was loving that serenity and the Adrenalin induced by the sense of exploration. I don't need to climb Everest or row across the Atlantic or come up with some other extreme 'first'; I'm happy concocting my own walks and not following somebody else's route. That gives me enough Adrenalin, plus looking for benchmarks, flora and fauna and a wealth of history besides.

Such was my state of mind as I walked along this farm road, pausing to say hello to a large herd of sheep.

Sheep at Ormiston Farm. Looking towards Grange of Lindores. NO2416

I spied a Grey Wagtail just before Ormiston Farm, which was a lovely surprise. There are a few burns hereabouts I suppose. As I passed Ormiston Farm, a farmer drove past on his quad bike with his two kids and collie. He stopped to say hello and I checked that I was going in the right direction. I wasn't. As I've said before, I don't like it when people ask where I'm heading because I often don't know. This time I did though; I knew I was heading towards Newburgh and he pointed me in the right direction.

I hadn't long turned onto the path he'd shown me when he drove up behind me again. "I notice you've got binoculars," he said"Have you seen any rare birds round here?" Delighted to have found someone interested enough to have taken time out from his busy day to make a diversion to ask me, I told him I'd seen tree Sparrow and Grey Wagtail, which, though not 'rare' in themselves were always a joy to see and that Tree Sparrow is is national decline. I wish I'd known when talking to him that it is in fact one of five species with a long-term decline of 90% or more. That is really worrying and so very encouraging to have seen it here. He said he was trying to make his farm more biodiverse and would be interested to know if any 'rare' species were seen here. I said I would let him know if I saw anything really rare as he didn't seem interested in the meagre sparrow and wagtail.

Heartened by this conversation, I continued on the path as far as it allowed, to the gates of Clatchard Craig Quarry, a bit of a scar on the landscape.

Clatchard Craig Quarry. N02417

Here I turned left and straight up Ormiston Hill from whence a splendid view of the Tay is beheld.

Newburgh, the Tay and Norman's Law in the distance. From NO2317

It might be a splendid view of the Tay, and my heart might be pounding with ecstasy within my chest, but it wouldn't do for my requisite photograph of NO2317. I needed something more local, and, in this case, more mundane.

Descending to Newburgh from Ormiston Hill. NO2317

I had made my mind up to have lunch by the shores of the Tay. It was quite late for me to be eating lunch at 1.20 pm, but I just hadn't found a suitable spot before. It's always quite difficult finding somewhere relatively comfort to sit. My criteria for lunch are as follows:

1) Between 12 noon and 1 pm.
2) Somewhere comfy to sit
3) With a view
4) Somewhere sheltered and quiet
5) With no-one else in sight as far as possible
6) With nothing unsightly or foul-smelling in view or in the air

Today's lunch spot fulfilled only no 3 of my criteria. I perched on a cold step, although you could argue my posterior was warmed by the comfort of my trusty red foam sheet that lives in my rucksack for such occasions (also useful for crossing barbed wire fences). I was in full view of many dog walkers, thus 4) and 5) and possibly 6) were being breached and obviously, being 1.20 pm no 1 had also been breached. Still, no 3) made up for it!

Pier at Newburgh, NO2318

I rushed my lunch, for all the reasons above, but mainly because my fingers were too cold to remain out of my gloves for long, then proceeded eastwards. A strange figure took my eye in the fields on the hill to my right.

The Newburgh Bear from NO2318

The bear was cut for a community project in 1980 and  is believed to be a depiction of a stone called the bear stone,which was originally set into the abbot’s residence at nearby Lindores Abbey (another place I must visit). For more information about the bear, see here.

I photographed a bench for NO2418, positioned in a more suitable lunch spot than the one I had chosen!

Bench by the Pow of Lindores. NO2418

Apparently vessels used to lie here on their way up river to Perth. From at least 1600 a ferry used to cross the Tay between Lindores to Errol on the opposite side. See Canmore's excellent site for more details.

From here I followed the path inland, passing Parkhill Mill, crossing the road and turning south towards Old Parkhill.

Parkhill Mill. NO2418

Old Parkhill. NO2418

I had seen quite a few people walking today and stopped to speak to most of them. Of course, naturally I seek solitude on such occasions. I don't mind meeting people walking in the opposite direction because I know I'm going to get rid of them quickly, but it's a bit more awkward if you're kind of going the same pace as someone walking in the same direction. Do you keep pace with them and chat? Not a good option, but does it look rude to stroll on them past them with not much more than passing the time of day with them? I'm never sure and usually judge from the reaction to my initial greeting as I casually walk past them or let them overtake me (probably my preferred option).

Today, I stopped to speak to a couple with a dog (I forget which breed). We discussed which way the Fife Coast path went as it had turned inland. I explained that my map was old and didn't show the Fife Coast Path so I wasn't sure, but was just going to follow my nose. I overtook them, thinking they might overtake me whilst I was engaged in photography somewhere, but, in fact, I didn't see them again.

I walked across a stubble field to Old Parkhill, where some workers were busy with noisy machinery and I waved hello to them.

Stubble field from Old Parkhill, looking towards Parkhill. NO2418

The views were glorious on this perfect autumn day.

Newburgh and River Tay from NO2518

But what was this I beheld before me? A ruined castle? How come I'd not noticed this on my pre-walk reccie?

Ballinbreich Castle from NO2518

I consulted my map and discovered it must be Ballinbreich Castle, which is actually in NO2720 and not on my walk today - but another time . . .

For my requisite photo, I turned to the shade and the disused quarry on Silver Hill.

Disused quarry, Silver Hill. NO2518

I was loving this amble along the Tay, albeit at some distance, but that allowed for expansive views and the nip in the air was invigorating. I walked on towards Silver Hill with its line of Pine Trees.

Pine Woodland on Silver Hill. NO2618

The sunlight filtered through the sparse trees, creating a stunning dappled effect.

Silver Hill Woodland. NO2619

The islands on the Tay were distinctly visible from up here. What a perfectly beautiful place to be grazing.

Grazing on Higham Hill. NO2619

Grazing on Higham Hill. NO2719

Just before Old Higham the path turned inland once more and I was sad to be leaving the coastal views, but glad to be nearing my car after nearly 12 miles out in the cold. A path turned towards the coast from here, pointing towards Ballinbreich Castle, so I knew where to return to at a future date.

I passed Old Higham Farm, glowing in the late afternoon sun and then, in the next gridsquare, Higham Farm Cottages.

Old Higham Farm. NO2719

Higham Farm Cottages. NO2718

Now I was back where I'd started, where I'd turned back over five hours before. I seemed to have been walking for much longer than five hours, but I usually cover about 2.5 miles in an hour, so that worked out about right. It had been one of my favourite walks with plenty to return to - perhaps on a warmer day. The last photo of the day goes to Glenduckie Hill, guarding the village of Glenduckie and absorbing the last of the winter's day's apricity.

Glenduckie Hill from NO2719

Number of new gridsquares: 12 (I had first bagged 4 others on previous occasions)
Number of miles walked: 11.7
Walk worth repeating: YES, omitting ascent to Dunbog trig, visiting Abdie old church, Lindores Abbey. Another walk will have to include Ballinbreich Castle and adjoining squares.
Highlights: sunshine and frost, Fife Coast Path, Tree Sparrows, Grey Wagtail, meeting enthusiastic farmer, path at Lindores Loch. autumn colours and lighting.

Walking with Wemyss Windmills - 17th November 2019

Today's walk location was determined by the need to be elsewhere later in the day; I can't now remember where, but it must have been Falkland because I remember choosing somewhere between my home and Falkland and that 'somewhere' was Milton of Balgonie, a place for which I passed the turn off every time I drove to Glenrothes along the A911 and always wondered where that road led (other than Milton of Balgonie of course). Today I was to find out.

I parked in the small village of Milton of Balgonie and immediately took a photograph of the school for that gridsquare, always a sure subject for a Geograph.

Milton of Balgonie School. NO3200

I walked eastwards and turned right onto a small lane which led to the River Leven.

Lane to River Leven. NO3200

The sun was shining gloriously and it felt like a truly autumnal day. Imagine my joy as I approached the river and caught a fleeting glimpse of the Kingfisher. My first one for Fife. I was beside myself with excitement. It flew upstream so I knew there was little chance of seeing it again.

River Leven near Milton of Balgonie. NO3200

At  bifurcation I turned left, knowing I'd be returning via the path to the right. I passed an ivy-covered ruin in the woods, about which I have been able to find not a jot of information, although Balfour Mill is listed on the 1856 6" map, so this could be a building associated with that mill.

Ivy-clad ruin near Milton of Balgonie. NO3200

On the southern side, about quarter of a mile away lay the remains of Balfour House. This erstwhile mansion was developed in the 17th century from a late 16th century house. It is all now a roofless ruin.

Ruins of Balfour House. NO3200

It seemed to be taking a while to get into a new gridsquare; there had been so much to see in NT3200. Seeing the Kingfisher in that square will do a lot towards pushing it up in my favourite gridsquare charts!

I was now in NT land and seeing lots of Yellowhammers. I don't think I've yet been a walk in Fife without seeing a Yellowhammer and it is so encouraging to see this farmland bird maintaining its status here. I rarely saw them on either Islay or in Dorset.

Balfour Mains. NT3299

Balfour Mains (left) and cottage (right). NT3299

At Balfour Main's Cottage I turned sharply right to continue along a lovely, grass-centre farm track (there really ought to be an name for these).

Green Lane near Balfour Mains. NT3299

I turned sharply right and then sharply left twice to join Cardowrie Loan. If I'd turned right instead of left here I could have curtailed my walk hugely, but where's the fun in that?

Byresloan Farm made a good subject for square NT3199.

Byresloan. NT3199

There was another option for a shorter walk just beyond Byresloan, but I turned left towards Tullybreck where I crossed a former railway line (they seem to crop up wherever I go in Fife). This one was another part of the former Wemyss and Buckhaven Railway that I have walked along before.

Former railway line near Tullybreck. NT3198

I passed another walker here who was walking along the railway line. It would be interesting to try that sometime. I wonder if you can walk along it from here right to Methil which was where I had joined it on a previous walk. Today, I was crossing both the railway line and the River Ore. As far as I'm aware this was my first visit to the River Ore.

Footbridge across the River Ore at Tullybreck. NT3198

I passed an old brick building on my right opposite Tullybreck Farm, about which I haven ot been able to find any information.

Old building at Tullybreck. NT3198

Then I was into sun-drenched woodland.

Autumn at Tullybreck. NT3198

I was also entering Wemyss Wood and the Earl's Seat Wind Farm. From now on the landscape was dominated by regularly turning, rhythmical wind turbines. I feel a certain ambivalence about wind turbines. Part of me thinks they are an eyesore, marring an otherwise beautiful landscape, but part of me finds something soothing in their regular, constant turning, as if they are bringing my thoughts into some sort of order instead of the chaotic mass in which they normally swirl.

Earl's Seat Wind Farm. NT3298

Somehow, and it's a mystery exactly how, I managed to omit gridsquare NT3297. I have since returned and almost forgot to photograph it again. It's as if there's a sort of black hole there. Admittedly the landscape looks exactly the same with only the odd sign numbering each wind turbine to distinguish one from another. It's quite a monotonous landscape, but one in which I expect landscape could thrive in this semi greenfield land.

I saw on the steps of one of the turbines, munching my lunch and watching a fox in the distance. There is little in the way of disturbance for wildlife here and the turbines are doing little harm, so I can live with the fact they they constantly slice the wind in thirds.

After lunch I went off in search of  the standing stone which gives the Standing Stane road its name. I have to admit I was a little disappointed.

Standing Stone at Earl's Seat.NT3197.

The stone is only 4.5 feet high. I think I'd expected to see something at least twice that height considering it had given its name to a whole A road.

I continued my walk with the windmills. 

Walking with windmills. NT3197

I had not seen a soul all day until I bumped into a man walking from the opposite direction who looked like he was working somewhere. I asked him if it were possible to exit the wind farm from the direction in which he had come and he confirmed it was so I walked onto New Bridge Strip and back into autumn. How delightful to be surrounded, immersed in copper, amber and gold.

Copper, amber and gold in New Bridge Plantation. NT3197

I was revelling autumn whilst keeping my eye on my phone map ready for my emergence into NT3097. It would be a brief sojourn in that gridsquare.

New Bridge Plantation. NT3097

I was about to cross the River Ore again and headed northwards through yet more autumn regality.

New Bridge Strip. NT3098

How dare you return?

Autumn, the time of falling

You stole her away.

And so, with mixed thoughts, I approached New Bridge, the new bridge which had obviously given its name to the woodland through which I had just walked. The bridge was apparently used by pack animals in transporting coal from the Balgonie mines to the coast for shipping.

New Bridge over River Ore. NT3098

Immediately over the bridge I spotted some wavy-edged fungi.

Fungi near New Bridge. NT3098

I crossed what used to be a level crossing and passed another walker.

Former level crossing near Thornton. NT3098

I was now on Doubledikes Road and walked through a tunnel underneath the present railway line near Coaltown of Balgonie.

Railway tunnel near Thornton. NT3099

Just before reaching Coaltown of Balgonie, I turned right to cross the railway again as it headed north-west. In order to gain NO3000 I continued on the footpath until it joined the B9130 at Coaltown of Balgonie. I would turn right again at Westgate and walk past Balgonie Castle.

Westgate and the road to Balgonie Castle. NO3000

This was my least favourite part of the walk and the only bit I would miss out on a future occasion. Though it was gratuitous, it served its purpose and I did get to see Balgonie Castle again, a place I had visited several years before with funny memories.

Balgonie Castle. NO3100

The Castle was built in the 15th Century. Covenanter, General Sir Alexander Leslie returned to Scotland from Sweden to live here in 1654. He died in 1661 and is buried within Markinch Church.

Having walked along the road for a mile, I was glad to once more feel a softer surface underfoot and be back by the River Leven. I sat with my last cup of tea of the day and took a photograph of the square with which I had begun my walk with the windmills.

A seat by the Leven. NO3200

Number of new gridsquares: 11
Number of miles walked: 8.8
Walk worth repeating: yes, several different/shorter versions are available, but would definitely not walk along road again.
Highlights: autumn colours, River Leven, Kingfisher, Fox, Yellowhammers, old railway line

Scrap metal and mines - Wemyss Wander - 10th November 2019

It was time to bag a few local squares, right on my doorstep. The first one was a sad one. When I first moved into my lovely flat I had noticed lots of larger vehicles driving down the street with scrap metal in them and wondered where they were going as my street is a cul de sac. Today I was to discover the answer to the mystery and discover why those larger vehicles no longer drove down the street.

Walter Stewart Scrap Metal Merchants, East Wemyss. NT3396

Poignant message.

It seems the government will never learn how to support small businesses; will never learn that the little things in life are the ones that count; that increased legislation is not always the answer. I have heard similar stories so many times from frustrated people who want to help others, not build an empire, but increasingly these are the ones who end up down trodden and forgotten. I've not been here long to have appreciated it, but thanks for all the hard work Wattie and Mark Stewart.

The day was literally as well as figuratively overcast as I made my way along the coastal path, looking towards a distant Edinburgh.

Fife Coast path near East Wemyss. NT3395

Soon I was at West Wemyss and drawn to an unusual steel memorial in the shape of a mine. This commemorates five men who were fatally injured when they tethered a sea mine which was floating dangerously close to the village of West Wemyss during the Second World War. One of the spikes is thought to have come loose and crashed against the rocks, detonating the mine and killing all five men, the youngest of whom was only 15 years old. The full story can be read here. All five men are buried in the nearby church, but, despite a prolonged search, I have only been able to find one of those mentioned.

West Wemyss memorial. NT3294

My route today was vaguely shaped like a triangle and I was now at the left-most corner, so turned inland, north-eastwards, where a path leads through the woodland and fields of Wemyss Estate to Coaltown of Wemyss. Once at the village I turned left

Main Street, Coaltown of Wemyss. NT3295

I think the flag was out for Armistice Day, which was the next day.

Just beyond the school I turned right onto the Red Ash Trail and the disused railway line of the former Wemyss and Buckhaven Railway. This line opened in 1881 and connected Buckhaven with the main line railway network at Thornton, linking several collieries en route. The line was extended to Mehtil and Leven harbours in 1884 and this extension line was called the Leven Extension Railway. A passenger service was also operated between Thornton and Methil.

The railway served the  East Fife Coalfield, but both the passenger and freight services fell into deep decline after 1930. The passenger service was closed in 1955 and the line closed completely in 1980. Another former thing that has passed away; what things that we are familiar with today will be 'former things' to our grandchildren's children?

I passed disused mine shafts and dipped gratuitously into NT3196. I can't remember if I think this is cheating or not!

Footpath sign near Coaltown of Wemyss on disused railway line. NT3196

There is a delightful network of footpaths here which warrant further exploration. I have since revisited these parts and discovered more paths. It would be nice to walk them in all the seasons, something I keep thinking whenever I go for a walk and imagine what it might look like in a different season.

I retraced my steps to walk through NT3296 along the railway line.

Former railway line. NT3296

Former railway line. NT3396

I was now walking on the north side of East Wemyss, a place I had never been to before and was soon to enter what is called Wemyss Den on the map, although there is a sign to another Wemyss Den further south in the village. I think there were several 'dens' in the village at one time.

Wemyss Den. NT3397

I saw on a fallen branch with my lunch and two walkers passed by and were surprised to see me. "How lovely to see a thermos flask!" the female of the pair smiled. "I'm never without it," I said, returning the smile and holding my little red cup up in what I hoped was a cheery greeting.

I walked northwards to the end of the den and followed the path round to the left to enter NT3498 where the path continues to a driving range and Wellsgreen Farm and beyond to the Standing Stane Road. I was turning back towards the village though. I had one more gridsquare to bag before the end of my walk.

Near Wellsgreen Farm towards East Wemyss. NT3498

Back in the village I crossed the A955, turned left and then almost immediately right onto a path which led to the sea and MacDuff's Castle.

MacDuff's Castle. NT3497

The remains of this castle stand above the shoreline north-east of the village of East Wemyss. The castle dates originally from the middle ages when the MacDuff's were them ost powerful family in Fife, but nothing now survives of this building. The remaining ruins were the home of the Wemyss family between the 14th and 16th Century. The castle is said to be haunted by a 'Grey Lady',apparently the ghost of a Mary Sibbald who was found guilty of theft and died in the castle.

I resisted the temptation to explore the many caves dotted along the shoreline. That would make an interesting subject for a future walk. For now it was back home for a cup of tea - this time not from the flask!

Number of new gridsquares: 10
Number of miles walked: 7.6
Walk worth repeating: yes, in a different season
Highlights: Macduff's Castle, coastal path