Motivated by my plans to head off on a camping trip up some munros very soon, I decided I'd better do some training, not having climbed anything higher than than Kincraig Hill in the past two years. Arguably, my training fell a little short of ideal as I contemplated an extended walk round Craigtoun Country Park.
This had been a walk I'd plotted on my virtual map many months ago, but had kept putting it off because, to be quite frank, it seemed to lack interest. There were no trig points, not even the slightest incline to justify calling it 'training', little promise of wildlife and very few benchmarks. Granted there was a church, Cameron Church, and that's where I started today.
I always get a twinge of excitement when I enter new territory and I'd passed the turn off to Cameron Kirk many times and imagined myself driving along the pot-holed road to the invisible church. Now I was actually going to see it! But where was it? It is quite difficult to find, set well back from the road and boasts an enormous car park which must surely exceed its requirements. I was the sole occupant today and excitedly I donned my outdoor gear and went to explore the churchyard, discovering a benchmark and an intriguing gravestone.
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| Cameron Church - NO 48 11 |
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| Benchmark on Cameron Church - NO 48 11 |
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| Professor William McKane's grave, Cameron Kirk - NO 48 11 |
I had never heard of Professor William McKane before, but, in my penchant for graveyards and interesting graves, I stumbled upon this one, which simply states that William McKane was Professor of Hebrew and Oriental languages. I did some research when I got home and discovered he was lecturer on those subjects at St Andrews University for a time, an author of several theological books, an eminent scholar and an authority on the prophets and wisdom literature of the Bible. He was born in 1921 and died September 2004. The modest inscription on his gravestone belies his many achievements. For more information on William McKane, look
here.
My tour of the churchyard over, I could no longer delay actually starting my 10 mile walk. I was already late setting off as I'd checked the forecast and it was supposed to get brighter as the day wore on so I'd set off later than usual and donned my walking boots at about 11 am.
As I said, there was a dearth of benchmark opportunities on this walk, so I tried hard to convince myself I'd discovered one on a stone near my turn off northwards. I spent a bit of time clearing the stone and looking for the rivet but couldn't quite convince myself this was it. In hindsight, I think it was and it might be worthwhile returning when the vegetation has died down a little to have another look.
I'm always relieved to see a footpath sign in the direction in which I wish to walk - and this was one of several today.
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Path to Denhead. NO 47 11
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My relief was short-lived however; the path became more and more overgrown with every step and, with it, wetter and wetter. For a while I contemplated my options 1) keep going for ten miles 2) turn back now and admit defeat. I knew I'd have to make the decision soon otherwise it would be further to go back than I'd already come.
An abandoned old machine stopped me briefly in my tracks. I'm always drawn to such things; it looked as if it had been driven there and left, just as it was with its wheels all askew.
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| Rusty, blue and askew - an old machine near Denhead. NO 4711 |
I wasn't even in a new gridsquare. I passed the gable end of a ruined building halfway along the track (was I really only halfway along?) At least I was in a new gridsquare now and, ironically, near Waterless Wood. At least I think that was the name of the wood as my phone, in my trouser pocket had got so wet it was registering moisture in the charging connection so wasn't working that well! You could have wrung my trousers out they were so wet. It had rained the night before and summer's lushness was at its optimum so I should hardly have been surprised. Each time I put a foot forward it was like being in a mini rockpool. I could hear the water in my boots and my feet swimming in them. Waterless Wood indeeed!
But each season must be cherished and savoured. For all my misgivings about summer, I have to concede it is a lush, verdant season; when the cycle of the seasons has reached its zenith. Everything is bulging, pulsating, brimming and buzzing with life. This is what spring, autumn and winter all work towards. One minute everything is drab, dull and dead and the next you've got Yorkshifre Fog dripping all over you!
Ruminating on such things, I finally arrived in an open area and at the junction where I had anticipated turning right to Winthank. This detour was simply to bag two more squares; otherwise I would carry on left to Denhead. A worn and broken sign at the end of the road once read 'Private. No Entry.' I could have argued legitimately that it no longer read thus, but exhausted and wet after my travels through the rain forest, I opted for the easy option. I would only miss out on one gridsquare by doing so; I realised the ther one I would shortly be entering, albeit it momentarily.
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| Finally, a track - oh jubilation! - NO 47 12 |
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| Private. No Entry .Sign to Winthank Farm. NO 47 12 |
I always get a little buzz of excitement when entering a new gridsquare (as I've said many times) and especially when there's actually a marked feature in the gridsquare (or a benchmark of course). As I approached NO 47 13, I felt that same buzz of excitement. Fortunately I captured it there and then and took a photo - even though the lime works (disused) were more than a bit of a disappointment.
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| Winthank Woods - NO 47 13 |
As I wandered contentedly through the woods, singing to myself, as I often do, the buzz of excitement became audible and louder. Suddenly I was aware of something more reminiscent of a whoosh of a helicopter than a buzzing and bees were flying all around me. Adrenalin kicked in and I ran with all my might , panting with fear. "This is how Winnie the Pooh must have felt," I thought to myself when I dared stop, take off my rucksack and check for any stripey hitchhikers. I appeared to have outrun them but I carried, walking swiftly just to be on the safe side.
By now I was clean out of that wretched square and into one I'd visited before on my Strathkinness walk 18 months ago, just before lockdown. As I approached the end of my track I could see a car parked right at the road end. Getting closer, I could see a young girl in it playing with her mobile phone. She was in the driver's seat with her legs sort of crossed and over the passenger seat. I wondered what she was doing there - a human being after my sojourn in the tropics!
Soon there was another human being, an older lady walking her dog. We passed each other as I walked confidently down the road, the road I'd walked down before. But, wait a minute! I wasn't supposed to be walking down the road I'd walked down before. I checked my map and did an about turn. I was going to have to pass the dog walker again as she was walking down the road I should be on. "Took the wrong turning," I explained as I walked hurriedly by and into Denhead.
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| Entering Denhead. NO 46 13 |
Of course, I hadn't thought I'd be coming this way so hadn't anticipated another benchmark. It's a good thing I check my map every five minutes. Suddenly things were looking up as I spotted the bonus benchmark on the wall.
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| Wall at Denhead - benchmark location. NO 46 13 |
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| Denhead benchmark - NO 46 13 |
Feeling drier and happier, I marched along the road, looking for an entry into Craigtoun Country Park. The verges were verdant and colourful with Feverfew and Bellflower and I stopped to photograph them, despite being aware of other walkers behind me.
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| Feverfew, Denhead - NO 46 13 |
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| Bellflower, Denhead NO 46 13 |
I was aware the couple behind me were walking a lot faster than me (they probably hadn't been through a rain forest) and that they too, were probably looking for a way into the Country Park. Every so often over the wall I could see garishly coloured golfers swinging their clubs for this was the Duke's Course. It wouldn't do to disturb their game - or get hit by a golf ball.
Eventually I found a narrow gap in the wall - and another benchmark. It was a bit embarrassing, but there was nothing for it but admit to the two behind me why I'd stopped. "You go first," I offered, "I'm just taking a photo of the benchmark," I pointed to it vaguely and the girl laughed uncertainly. She obviously had no idea what I was on about. Still, when there's a desert area of benchmarks, you've got to make the most of what's there.
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| Benchmark on gatepost of entrance to Craigtoun Country Park - NO 47 14 |
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Entrance to Craigtoun Country Park - NO 47 14
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Lichen at entrance to Craigtoun Country Park - NO 47 14
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I wasn't on the path marked on my map, but frequent checking confirmed I was heading in the general right direction. Suddenly I was beyond the golf course and at the car park and club house for golfers only. A sign led the way to St Andrews and now I was on the Fife Pilgrims' Way (if I wasn't already, I don't know). I keep finding myself on this long distance path on my walks. Perhaps I'll discover I've done the whole thing if I sat down and worked it out.
I strolled along, not seeing much of interest until I came to what turned out to be the old hospital.
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| Craigtoun Hospital - NO 48 14 |
This property, now in a parlous and perilous state of repair dates from 1902. It is built on the Mount Melville Estate which was one of many Melville Estates over hundreds of years. In 1902 the mansion house was rebuilt for the Younger family of brewery fame.
In 1947 Mount Melville House along with 47 acres and the East and West Avenues, were bought by Fife County Council for £25,000. Its name was changed to Craigtoun, and the grounds were established as a Country Park. The remainder of the estate continued to be farmed by the Mount Melville Estate. The mansion became a maternity hospital until 1992 when it was sold, together with 330 acres of parkland to the Old Course Hotel, St Andrews who developed the Dukes Golf Course in the west park.
(Information from https://www.buildingsatrisk.org.uk/details/915746)
It certainly looked a lovely location for a maternity hospital and it occurred to me that if I'd been here instead of Ayrshire in 1991, Lorna could have been born here!
I strode off now in the direction of the ponds, thinking I would have my picnic there, even though it was a little off the path. Being the school holidays, there were lots of families about, playing ball and yes, there was some noise coming from the bouncy castle as I walked past it for the first time.
Surprisingly I couldn't see a bench at the first pond, so headed for the second pond with its rather quaint islet and Dutch village.
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| Islet and Dutch Village, Craigtoun Country Park - NO 48 14 |
I passed the couple I'd seen earlier and greeted them. They were sitting on my first bench of choice eating their picnic. I think they were doing the Fife Pilgrim Way. I walked a bit further round the pond and sat in the shade by a little waterfall, noting the Moorhen and Mallard chicks on the pond. There was surprisingly little else to view there.
Then began my second and third circumnavigations of the bouncy castle. I was getting lost in Craigtoun Country Park! Help! Where were the signs? All I could see were trampolines, the seven dwarves, Snow White and lots of ice cream and candy floss. I resisted the temptation to buy an ice cream several times, my resolve fortified by visions of myself dripping in sticky, wasp-attracting goo, and where was I to put it when I wanted to consult my map or take a photo or look through my binoculars. No, ice cream was out - however tempted I was.
By the time I ended up back where I'd started I decided it was time to take matters into my brain as opposed to wherever else they had been up till now. Aha! I spied a sign for the Fife Pilgrim Way (obviously only just erected). I followed it, found my way back to the bouncy castle and this time managed to get beyond it and into Craigtoun Den.
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| Craigtoun Den - NO 48 14 |
This was lovely walking through the woodland with its understorey of wurzel wegs and the Craigtoun Burn running at the bottom of the valley. At Lumbo Bridge I crossed the road and went back into the Den, only this time I wasn't in woodland or close to the river, so perhaps not technically speaking a den.
I saw and heard a tuneful Whitethroat here.
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| Lumbo Bridge - NO 48 14 |
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| Whitethroat singing, Craigtoun 'Den' - NO 48 14 |
I felt as if I'd been in NO 48 14 forever, so was glad to reach the next gridsquare and take a photo of the only feature I thought I was likely to pass - a bench.
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| Bench in Craigtoun 'Den' - NO 48 15 |
The contour lines led down into the outskirts of St Andrews and the path was next to the burn once more. I passed an young student and exchanged greetings. Suddenly I was in suburbia and the path became more enclosed with high walls and houses caging me in. The sound of traffic told me I was approaching a main road. I'd hoped to avoid this, thinking I might sneak off to the right beforehand to walk back through Cairns Den. I was now approximately half way through my walk.
There was one advantage to not being able to find a shortcut, however. I bagged another benchmark. It was a surreptitious benchmark in that I had to photograph it surreptitiously as it was on a housing estate. I have no tips on how to do this really, despite lots of practice. One can either go right up to the subject (in this case the benchmark) and photograph it without having to zoom in or one can stand a distance, check the right location through one's binoculars and then zoom in on it and snap! Turn quickly and try not to break into a run. I always find I feel as though I'm doing something slightly unwholesome but there's nothing 'unwholesome' about being fascinated by benchmarks is there - or birds for that matter, for one encounters the same problem when trying to photograph or observe a bird in a built up area. In the excitement of the moment you forget where you are and train your binoculars on that bush right outside that window, follow the bird round to the next bush, another window and another and then you realise someone looking out the window at that precise moment might not take too kindly to seeing someone ostensibly staring right at them!
Enough metaphorical rambling, back to Aikman Place and my newly bagged benchmark.
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| Benchmark, Aikman Place, St Andrews, NO 49 15 |
I finally found a way into the next den - Cairns Den and started my journey south through another delightful wooded glen. This time the path led me next to the Cairnsmill Burn and part of the dismantled Fife Coast Railway line.
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| Cairnsmill Burn. NO 49 15 |
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| Cairnsmill Den. NO 49 15 |
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| Cairnsmill Den. NO 49 15 |
I relished being in the shelter and shade of the leafy trees. It had turned into a very muggy, hot day and my once wet feet were now suffocating in a prison-like sauna. My relief was short-lived, however, as an endearing wee bridge led me onto the 'plains' where I expected to see an oasis, gazelles and other benign African mammals quenching their thirst.
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| Bridge to the 'plains'. NO 49 15 |
I was very disappointed therefore to find no visible drinking hole (the reservoir might still be there, but out of sight), and not a single mammal in sight, human or otherwise.
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| Path at Carinsmill 'Plain'. NO 49 14 |
There were signs aplenty of human intervention, however, with a literal sign directing walkers to follow the mown path and avoid Cairnsmill Caravan Park. I was only too happy to do as I was told, providing the path led in the right direction; it did and I spied an erstwhile railway bridge marking the end of my short section following this historic railway line.
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| Cairnsmill Railway Bridge - NO 49 14 |
I had a cursory look for any benchmark I might have overlooked when plotting my route and was pleased to confirm, on my return, that there wasn't one. Sometimes, in my more fastidious moments, I consider looking at the historic OS maps which depict benchmarks with a tiny arrow and their height - and there's more of them - whoop! whoop! But, to be honest, I've enough preparation to do for a walk without getting yet another map out to pour over (phew! I hear you say)
Here I rejoined the road I'd crossed earlier at Lumbo Bridge and followed it to its confluence with the A915 which I crossed and was pleased to see a footpath sign on my intended route to Lambieletham.
Wearily I walked up hill to Wester Balrymonth where I could finally take a photograph within a new gridsquare, albeit a boring one.
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| Wester Balrymonth - NO 50 14 |
I had imagined myself on this walk many times and as my weary feet trudged reluctantly uphill, I tried to remember how I had visualized the scenery. I don't think I thought there would be as many houses for one thing. Otherwise it was probably much as I'd imagined - an area of intense farmland with a few farmhouses dotted around. Oh, and an old windmill.
I could see the windmill on the other side of the field I was walking alongside and my original plan had been to walk down a track I hoped would materialise once I got there. I was, however, prepared for having to change my route if all did not go to plan. For a tantalising half an hour it looked as though that would not be necessary though - for lo, a footpath sign beckoned me to Cairnsmill. I turned right towards the windmill and entered another sodden footpath, thought by now the grass had dired out a lot in the sunshine.
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| Cairnsmill windmill - NO 50 13 |
A Yellowhammer called from the top of the windmill but flew before I had time to get my camera trained on it. My list of birds for the day stood at around 30, not bad considering the time of year and lack of diverse habitats.
I continued hopefully past the windmill, walking parallel to a steep sided burn, which I was going to have to find a way over in order to execute my plan. Alas! No path led that way, so I turned round and retraced my steps to Lambieletham Farm Cottage.
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| Lambieletham Farm Cottage - No 50 13 |
Back on the farm track, I continued rather wearily towards North Lambieletham, calculating how much longer I had to go. "About two miles," I told myself, "and we can go and see if that reservoir is still there once we get to North Lambieletham."
The reservoir was not there; I doubt it had been there for many a long year. Instead there was an area of scrub with a few reeds to give away its erstwhile status. Chiffchaffs and Goldfinch called and I sat on the ground with a cup of tea drinking in the peaceful scene and imagining what must have been here before intensive farming methods rang the death knoll for birds such as Corncrake, Turtle Dove and Cirl Bunting in much of Scotland and UK wide. I always get heavy hearted when I allow my mind to drift like this. We should only use the past as wing mirrors to keep us on track for where we are now and where we want to go. If we keep looking in the wing mirrors, we'll crash!
So, with eyes literally and metaphorically, looking ahead, I picked myself up and continued along the road to South Lambieletham.
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| Looking towards North Lambieletham from South Lambiletham. NO 50 12 |
I was glad now to be walking along roads and not wondering whether my next turn off would be possible or not - it was roads all the way. I'd been looking forward to seeing Priorletham, if only because the name had been mentioned on quite a few gravestones at Cameron Kirk. I like putting 'faces' to names.
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| Priorletham - NO 49 12 |
Just before reaching the A915 and the last leg of my journey, I spied a hare nibbling grasses not far in front of me. It was oblivious to my presence and I managed a few photos before it sniffed me out and lolloped its way ahead of me and into a field.
I took an obligatory photo of the T-junction when I reached it, my last square of the day, and was glad to find an arable field through which I could walk instead of the main road.
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| Entrance to Priorletham. NO 48 12 |
Originally I had intended taking a right turn here to lead back to the footpath on which I'd started, but had dismissed that idea at the time because it would mean getting drenched again. No, I would opt for the busy road and just keep my wits about me. I was forced to rejoin the busy road after the length of one and a half fields and was relieved to soon see the sign for Cameron Kirk and the end of my walk.
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| The A915 near Cameron Kirk looking south. NO 48 11 |
I was still the only car in the oversized car park and I returned now feeling satisfied and content. This had been a walk in which very nearly everything went to plan.
Number of miles walked: 11.5
Number of new gridsquares: 13
Number of barbed wire fences crossed: 0 (possibly a record)
Number of benchmarks: 4
Walk worth repeating: yes (would probably be about 10 miles missing out extraneous bits)
Highlights: Flora, Craigtoun and Cairns Den,Cameron Kirk, Whitethroat, Hare
