A church, a ruin, a railway, a moat and a castle - Carnbee Circular - 21st November 2020

In contrast to last week's weather, today was beautiful and I welcomed back that feeling of anticipation I used to get whenever I embarked on one of my long walks. It's a mixture between fear and anticipation. I'm a little apprehensive that all might not go to plan - and it never does 100% of the time - but, at the same time, that's what makes it so exciting. Some people prefer to follow an assigned route and I'm just not one of those people, I like to pore over the map both before and after the walk to make sure I'm not going to miss anything of interest. Even this method is not foolproof.

Anyway, when I walked up Kellie Law in February I had been tempted to extend the walk to Carnbee as there was a church marked on the map. I'd resisted the temptation however and, since then, I have been anxious to return to the area to investigate the church. I'd drawn a route and synced it to my phone - if that's a word! I'd checked google map satellite where you drag the wee yellow man onto the map so you can see a 3D picture of the area you're interested in - and yes, it looked like you could park at the church.

Carnbee Church - NO5306

As usual, it took me ages to get booted up and ready. I had already turned my old phone on and checked the map, but now when I did so again the map was still there, but the route I'd synced had disappeared. I switched my phone off and back on again and tried every trick I knew to make it reappear - and, let's face it, there aren't many! But it wouldn't reappear. I thought there was nothing else for it but to try and remember the route and I was surprised to discover that I could remember it. I wouldn't be able to check the benchmarks of course, but that didn't matter too much. I'd just have to look harder for them whilst walking.

Having had a quick look round the churchyard and not seeing any obvious graves of particular interest and being keen to get started as I'd wasted some time agonising over the 'lost' route, I set off [ast the school and Carnbee Farm where I turned left towards Kellie Law. 

Track to Kellie Law. NO5206

Entering the next gridsquare I felt like this was not new territory, even though I was on a different footpath for nearly half of the square's length. I trod cautiously along the muddy path once I met the path I'd walked last time. "I could very easily slip here," I thought to myself. Picking my way through a ridiculous amount of mud I managed to get to a slightly less muddy part of the field, where I disturbed what I think was a Jack Snipe. t'he bird did not fly until I was virtually on top of it, was silent and made a beeline for a clump of juncus not far from where it had flown. Try as I might I could not see it again. I texted Tim. "Could it be a Jack Snipe?" I asked. "Very likely," was his reply. So there are some rewards for slipping and sliding your way through copious mud.

Looking at my routeless map, I oculd not remember whether I had opted to continue north along the road and turn at Knights Ward or turn left to South Baldutho, then right to head north past North Baldutho. I opted for the latter as I don't really like walking along the road. I didn't take any photos of the squares I had already photographed and walked quite quickly while I could, still conscious of the time I'd lost trying to 'find' my 'lost' route on my phone.

I counted 23 Mallard on Gillingshill Reservoir. I did not pause long here but thought it would have to do better than that to earn the title of Nature Reserve. Perhaps more wildfowl will yet arrive.

I was glad to reach the end of the boarding kennels with only one dog barking at me. This was where I entered new territory. Last time I had headed south; this time I was heading north. I turned right and followed a good track which suddenly petered out in a thicket of gorse bushes. Another track led westwards, but I didn't want to go in that direction. I went for a quick reccie to see if my desired path really was impenetrable. The verdict came back unclear so I erred on the side of caution and plumped for the westwards track.

I had been in this square before. It was the Baldutho Quarry square and I was now in the more northern sector of the square, but I didn't want to go any further west. As soon as I could I climbed a very rickety, held together with pieces of string fence and followed the field edge round to where I hoped I would meet the unobstructed path I'd left earlier.

The westward path I did not wish to follow. NO4906

Looking at the map I was 'joining' two broken pieces of dismantled railway, the old East Fife Central Railway. I had to clamber over a barbed wire fence (there were a few of them on this walk), but I had done it - I'd rejoined the path and was now at a ruined railway bridge and a delightful rippling burn.

North Baldutho Railway Bridge. NO5007

With blue skies overhead and the sound of the burn I decided to pause here for a well earned cup of tea. I was actually in the same gridsquare as Knights Ward, which had formed part of my aforementioned Largoward walk back in February. I revelled in the sunshine and in my achievement so far (yes, I know I'm bragging about very little) and hoped I'd be able to get past North Baldutho without any further trouble.

North Baldutho from the south. NO5007

Fortunately, I had no further trouble with disappearing tracks. North Baldutho farmstead is now a ruin (second from left) with various farm buildings on the site and a new build visible on the above photo (extreme left). I love ruins and thought I might investigate this one with the curious eye of a benchmark hunter (by the way I'd also looked at the railway bridge - to no avail - and was glad I didn't spend longer on that search as I discovered later there wasn't one there or at North Baldutho).

North Baldutho farmstead. NO4907

For all my delight in the new territory I'd walked through, my last 'new' gridsquare was five gridsquares ago and I was eager to enter a new one. A Stonechat flew close to say hello and hung around for a while to keep me company.

Stonechat

I passed the crossroads which had caused me some confusion on my Largoward walk in February. I had now walked down each trajectory, including the northern end of the one which had caused me a problem earlier in the day between North and South Baldutho. I was keen to see if this was indeed passable but that would have to wait for another day.

As I approached the B940 I entered new territory and took a photo of the farm sign for North Baldutho, a poignant pointer to days gone by when no doubt the farmhouse had been inhabited by those who farmed the land.

North Baldutho farm sign. NO4908

Later, when I checked my original intended route, I realised I planned to turn right at the B940 and then left to follow the Lingo Burn eastwards and then free range to South Kinaldy. The route I took involved turning left on the B940 and then right at West Lingo. Either route gained me just one new gridsquare. The route I ended up taking, though, did pass one of those attractive Fife milestones which I've inadvertently started collecting.

West Lingo Milestone with benchmark. NO4908

West Lingo milestone. West face. I love seeing the distances measured in eighths. Pitt'wm  5⅞

Context photo of West Lingo milestone. Looking west. NO4908

Sometimes B roads are surprisingly busy, but only a few cars passed in both directions in the short distance I walked to the Lingo House turn off.

Track to Lingo House. I liked the home made speed restriction sign. NO4908

I anticipated the sight of the homestead moat marked in Old English font on my map and turned into a field entrance to gain a view just before an imposing sign saying Lingo House Only across a closed gate. "I'll deal with that in a minute," I thought. First to investigate the moat.

Surveyors have concluded that this is probably a medieval homestead moat. I have to confess I thought moats were things associated with castle, usually with a drawbridge across which is whipped up to stop the enemy entering the castle. What does a medieval homestead want with a moat? I still don't really get it. Canmore has this to say about this particular moat.

Medieval homestead moat at Lingo. NO4908

Ruin near Lingo House. NO4908

NO4908 had been an interesting gridsquare, but I had spent long enough in it. I now climbed the locked gate to Lingo House in fear and trepidation. Was I going to be accosted?

Lingo House. NO5008

I was still a little fearful as I crossed the field towards South Kinaldy, especially as I saw a tractor working away in the distance, but in my direction of travel.

Field towards South Kinaldy. NO5009

I arrived at South Kinaldy farmstead ruin where I had thought I might eat my lunch, but it was very windy and cold with nowhere appealing to sit, so I decided I would continue after having a nosey at the ruin.

South Kinaldy. NO5109

I was delighted to discover a very worn benchmark on this ruin.

South Kinaldy benchmark. NO5109

I had made a very slight detour to visit this building and realised afterwards if I had wanted to cut my walk short I could have continued along that track towards Chesters and turned south to Pittarthie Castle. This would be an option for a shorter walk. For now, I retraced my steps 50 yards or so and turned right through another gate along a good track towards Kinaldy Den where my hopes were high for a decent lunch spot.

I was to be disappointed, for not only was there no decent lunch spot, there seemed to be no easy access into the den so the waterfall marked on the map remained tantalisingly close, but out of reach, as did the burn and my photograph for this gridsquare was a boring one of a field of haystacks.

Harvest time at Kinaldy. NO5010

I walked through Kinaldy farmyard with no trouble, anticipating a barking collie at every step, but it seemed deserted. An old dovecot made an interesting subject for this gridsquare, as well as adding to my Fife doocot collection. This one is not marked on the map, but is described here.

Kinaldy Doocot, late 17th/early 18th century. NO5110

My thoughts were now turning desperately to lunch. Looking at the map, I realised if I didn't stop soon, I'd be on the road again with nowhere suitable to stop. But I did not want to stop by Kinaldy House, where someone had a bonfire in the 'garden'. I walked purposefully along the extensive driveway and decided I'd stop at the entrance where a veteran Oak provided a good back rest for my picnic stop.

Driveway to Kinaldy House. NO5110

I enjoyed the company of tits and finches whilst I munched on my cheese roll and then, feeling rested and refreshed I braved the next section of the walk. Again, I was pleased to discover the road was largely free of traffic, allowing me to photograph the next gridsquare at my leisure. It was one of those that I could easily have missed had I been having one of my less observant moments, as I was only in the square for a matter of yards.

Bannafield. NO5211

Turn off to Tosh. NO5211

The road stretched on and on and made for easy walking. I could see another worker ahead near Tosh. He was in one of those tiny diggers. We waved to each other as I passed and then I paused at a bridge.

The road stretched on and on. Looking towards The Brake. NO5210

Bridge over Kinaldy Burn and Wakefield Burn. NO5210

Kinaldy Burn. NO5210

Would there be a rivet on this bridge? Even if there wasn't, it was a very attractive bridge. I ran my hand over the stonework and found a little hole. The cut mark was very worn but I took a photo just in case and was delighted to discover later that it was indeed a rivet benchmark.

Rivet on bridge over Kinaldy Burn. NO5210

I was in the next gridsquare for less than 1000 feet, so took a photo at the first opportunity.

Limelands Crossroads. NO5310

I turned right at these crossroads and walked towards Chesters along an avenue of trees.

Near Chesters. NO5309

I resisted the temptation to take any photos before I reached what I anticipated would be the highlight of my walk today - Pittarthie Castle. It wasn't really visible until I entered the field it was in; it is much more visible if you approach from the south. The Castle dates from the late 16th Century but is now a ruin. It is described on the historical portal here. I was its only visitor today and I sat on a wall with my final cup of tea of the day and decided to try a self-timer. It's not often I get a ready made tripod like a wall to put my camera on.

Self-timer at Pittarthie Castle. NO5309

Pittarthie Castle from the south. NO5309    

I was nearing the end of my walk and could see my track stretching ahead of me towards Lochty Farm. I headed south across the Dunino Burn to join the track.

Lochty Farm track. NO5208

I met the farmer walking through the farmyard. I'm always a little apprehensive on these occasions lest they think I'm trespassing, but he greeted me warmly and commented on the weather. It just meant I couldn't snoop around looking for a benchmark!

I turned left onto the B940 and inspected another milestone for a benchmark. There was no benchmark, but it was still an attractive milestone. I wonder how many I have now in my 'collection'.

Milestone on B940 near Lochty. NO5208

I was glad when I saw the turn off to Carnbee and a sign that read 'Carnbee 1'. My estimate had been correct; I was getting good at guessing, or rather, estimating the miles I had left to walk. I was now in my final gridsquare of the day and took a photograph of the road in the beautiful late afternoon light.

Approaching Carnbee. NO5207

Even closer to the end of the walk, I caught more than a glimpse of Carnbee Reservoir (Private Fishing). For a moment I thought I heard a Water Rail squealing here, but, as it was unlikely and probably due to tiredness, I'm not going to count it. There was no other life visible on the reservoir, which, although in a different gridsquare, it was one I had photographed at the beginning of the day, so it wasn't a new one for me. I took a photograph anyway - it looked attractive in the warm late afternoon lighting. 

Carnbee Reservoir. NO5206

I was back where I'd started. I'd done it without a drawn route. I felt quite proud of myself and I felt tired, but, more than anything, I felt elated as I always do on one of these low-key adventurous walks.

Back at Carnbee. NO5306

Number of miles walked: 12.2

Number of new gridsquares: 15

Number of milestones seen: 2

Number of Castles visited: 1

Walk worth repeating: yes, with option of going from South Kinaldy straight to Pittarthie Castle and then turning right before Lochty to get NO51 and (by short deviation) NO5107 and of retrying the North Baldutho track.

Highlights: North Baldutho ruin, Pittarthie Castle, ruined railway bridge near North Baldutho, Jack Snipe, Stonechat, South Kinaldy ruin.

Wishing I'd not started it - Gateside Circular - 15th November 2020

 It's not quite true to say I wish I'd not started this walk, but it is true to say it was one of the wettest walks I have ever done. Having said that, I have been on some very wet walks and each time it happens I wonder what made made me do it in the first place.

I do know what made me do it today. I was sick fed up of the weather thwarting all my gridsquare walking plans. I was sick fed up of looking out the window, checking forecasts obsessively and opting not to go out and then regretting it an hour later when the sun came out and proved the forecast wrong. I'd swithered half a dozen times that morning before looking out the window for the umpteenth time and deciding it had definitely stopped raining and then rushing to pack my lunch, grab binocs etc before it changed its mind again - or at least before I did!

My choice of location for this walk was new to me, right at the northern edge of the Fife/Perthshire boundary and part of the county I had driven through many times, but had not stopped to explore. That was about to change. Relieved it was still dry, I pulled into the car park at Glen Vale where several others cars had parked before me, no doubt to climb to John Knox's pulpit. I donned my waterproof trousers and boots which  meant there was no turning back and set off towards Glen Burn.

Towards Glen Burn. NO1706

Glen Burn - NO1706

I admired the autumn colours and plethora of moss adorned walls as I ambled along, congratulating myself on having forced myself out of the house as it looked set to be a dry day. How wrong we can be!

Various mosses en route.

I soon caught sight of a ruin ahead and got excited. I always get excited when I see a ruin. This one did look a rather dangerous place to wander into so I wasn't tempted. I could see bits of the structure dangling precariously down ready to fall, so gave it a wide berth and contented myself with imagining what it would have been like in days of yore.

Easter Gospetry - NO1606

I did see my first of what I thought was going to be 20 benchmarks on the ruined gable on the right.

Easter Gospetry benchmark - NO1606

Near the ruin I took some photos of a lichen. Since joining a new zoom group about lichens, I have come on leaps and bounds in my identification of lichens - in my dreams anyway, but think this one is Lecanora albescens.

Lecanora albescens

My path continued northwards towards the A91 and I would soon be crossing into Perthshire.

Looking back to Easter Gospetry - NO1607

Looking north to Perthshire - NO1607

The beautiful wall on my right as I walked towards Perthshire was adorned with many tempting lichens and I couldn't resist stopping to photograph a few. I'm glad I did now because my camera only came out by necessity for gridsquares hereafter for reasons which will become clear - even if the weather didn't!

Lichens on wall near Easter Gospetry - NO1607

I crossed the A91 and went straight into the grounds at Burnside. This is where I went 'wrong'. On the modern map (the one I should have used) I can see Yellowhill Road starts west of Burnside and there is no track east of the farm. There used to be though and that's the one I was so pleased was marked so well. I was so pleased with myself. It wasn't raining and I'd found the track very easily. This is when my obsession with maps comes in handy. I hadn't gone far along this well-marked path before I checked my map and discovered I wasn't on the track at all - it was a little further to the right. I retraced my steps but was unable to find the track, so decided maybe the well marked one I was on would eventually lead to where I wanted to go.

River Eden from the 'wrong' track'. I needed to be on the other side of the river. NO1508

I continued walking along the track towards a wood, which is when I noticed a well marked on the map and thought maybe this track was heading there, which would be good because that was on the other side of the river.

Entering the woodland south of the River Eden. NO1508

Once in the woods I discovered the path continued generally westwards, more or less following the Fife/Perthshire border as I had been doing. Desperate to head northwards, I descended towards the river in the hope of finding a crossing somewhere. From my elevated position I had seen that the river was in full flow, albeit quite narrow.

River Eden. No1508

A potential crossing place over the River Eden. NO1508

I eyed up a few potential crossing places where trees had fallen across the river. This one looks easier than it did close up. I shunned it and attempted another one, thinking I could maybe shimmy across it, but first I needed to step over an obstructing branch and I didn't have the courage to stand up to do so. The photos do not give an impression of the speed or depth of the river or my level of cowardice!

I finally decided my best option would be to get one foot wet, step onto an island (like the one in the above photo), then get both feet wet stepping onto 'dry' land. I would need to do this quickly, but carefully as I didn't want my binoculars or camera to fall into the river.

Feeling quite proud of myself I stepped successfully onto 'dry' land at the same time as it began to rain. I was glad I'd already donned my waterproof trouser. Perhaps it would just be a shower I hoped as I surveyed the land and my map. Now where was that path?

The path was no longer there, but I managed to get out of the bog and ascend up to what turned out to be Yellowhill Road, the one I should have been on in the first place. Next time I will know. I say 'next time' because this was the only disaster of the walk, that and the weather of course, which could be avoided another time.

There was another very minor mishap when looking for Yellowhill Trigpoint. There were two options - approach from the south or approach from the north. I chose the wrong one. I fought my way through gorse and mud before deciding I'd have to turn back and try from the north. This was much simpler and I got to the trig in no time at all.

Yellowhill trig looking south towards the Lomonds, covered in mist. NO1509

The road made easy walking in the rain, which I realised was definitely NOT  a shower and looked likely to last all day. Conscious that I would soon be crossing into Perthshire, but not entirely sure where the border was, I took a photo of the next gridsquare just in case. Turns out that one was in Perthshire, but I'll include it anyway.

Path to Burnside via Yellowhill. NO1410

I headed eastwards at this crossroads, eager to see Balcanquhal, which I had often driven past the turn off for, but never seen. I had read that Covenanting preaching had begun in Fife when John Blackadder, a famous Covenanting preacher, had visited Lady Balcanquhal and she had desired that he preach at her house. He had replied that services should not just be open to those who were interested. He "caused public advertisement to be made that all that were athirst might come without money and without price." "Let the world see," he said, "that you do not huddle up so profitable and honest a work or keep it to yourselves; as for my part I am not ashamed to avow it in the face of danger or death; I came not to call the righteous but sinners to repentance." (John Blackadder, the Covenanter by Hector MacPherson) This meeting was the first conventicle to be held in Fife. Of course, it is doubtful that the current Balcanquhal house is the one where John Blackadder preached, but the area is of interest nonetheless.

Balanquhal House - NO1510 (Perthshire)

Feeling generally wet and miserable I crossed back into Fife and crossed the A912. As I was looking for the path to Corrinzion, my phone rang. I fumbled down my waterproof trousers to reach my pocket and retrieve my phone. It was dad but I didn't answer in time. I always get worried when dad phones as he so seldom does. I rang back, still trying to find my turn off. "I've got a cold," dad said in a roundabout way, "and I'm trying to book a COVID test." We spent a long while on the phone whilst I got wetter and more and more anxious. Meanwhile I had found my turn off and was trying to shelter beneath a large pine tree. Once satisfied that, as far as I could tell, it was just a cold and by the sound of it Tim had ordered a home test as there did not appear to be a test centre nearer his home than Glenrothes, I told dad I was getting cold and wet and needed to go. He sounded cheerful enough. "I'll phone later and see how you are," I promised. "No need," he replied. "Just phone if you get worse," I concluded. I hoped desperately that there would be no phone call.

Naturally this added to my misery, although I pushed it to the back of my mind and concentrated on the matter in hand. I was soaked and needed to move. Not before I took a blurry photograph of the gridsquare though.

Corrinzion farm track - NO1610.

Reaching a T-junction, I turned right down Leden Urquhart road. 

Leden Urquhart Road - NO1710

I find when damp and despondent that it is important to keep one's spirits 'dry'. That is partly why I have purpose to my walks, Whatever the weather it is my aim to get to the next gridsquare, the next benchmark, to see a new bird/flower/lichen whatever. It definitely helps. On this occasion, it was a benchmark, one of the few I saw today.

Leden Urquhart Road rivet benchmark - NO1710

It was on a gatepost and framed by moss and lichen. Who else had stopped to appreciate it? I wondered. Perhaps the farmer knows of its existence but otherwise I may be the only one. I recrossed the A912 at Upper Pitlochie. Next time I drove to dad's I would look out for the road I'd walked. I always find a certain amount of satisfaction in being able to smugly say, "That's the turn off I took when . . ." even if most of the time I am my only audience!

Turn off to Glentarkie (Off Road Driving Centre) and the road I walked down. NO1709

I plodded on southwards in the pouring rain, glad of my makeshift waterproof camera case cover (a carrier bag which fell off shortly after without me noticing and which I'm ashamed to say I did not go back to retrieve). Crossing the A91 again and then the River Eden (thankfully much less traumatically than my earlier traverse), I saw through the mist the only person I'd encountered all day - naturally with dogs on tow. I paused to peruse the map. The route I'd drawn now headed eastwards towards Gateside, but I was tempted to follow the track directly south, thus saving a good mile and a half of my journey. What about your girdsquares? I hear you ask. Don't think I hadn't considered that. Naturally I had, and I wouldn't be missing any out by doing this. But I couldn't afford to have to turn back if the track expired. It was too near the end of my walk and I was too wet and miserable. I should add that somewhere at some point I sat on a very wet stone and ate a very wet sandwich, but I can't remember where.

With discretion being the better part of valour I followed my dog walking companion along the River Eden through glorious mud to Gateside. I slithered and slided whilst she took a drier route. "You opted for the better route, I see," I called across to her as I struggled to stay upright in the squelchy, slippery mud bath.

I squinted through the blur in front of my eyes with the hope of seeing Kingfisher on the River, but no such luck.

Ruin near Bannaty Mill. NO1708

A foggit (moss covered) branch across the River Eden. NO1708

I emerged onto Station Road, turned right, crossed a railway bridge (where I saw another benchmark) and continued northwards. I was on my last leg now - in more ways than one!

Benchmark on bridge on Station Road - NO1808

Bridge on Station Road, Gateside. NO1808

I turned right at Wester Nether Urquhart and trudged along tarmac through my final gridsquare of the day, thinking that this would be where I'd have turned up had I risked taking the other track and also realising that I would have missed a square after all, but that I probably wouldn't have cared. Och well, I was wet anyway and it would be hard to get any wetter.

Turn off to Lappie Farm. NO1707

As is often the case on days such as this, the road seemed to stretch on forever, but I finally made it back to the carpark, which was surprisingly full. Poorly shod families were holding coats over each other as they dashed back to their cars. Generously I allowed them to get back in their car whilst I waited for their doors to close and began the long process of returning from my amphibious state to mammalian state once more.

Number of miles walked: 9.8

Number of new gridsquares: 11

Number of trigpoints: 1

Number of benchmarks: 3

Walk worth repeating: yes, without the crossing the river bit.

Highlights: views (if clear enough!), South Kinaldy, Covenanter interest, River Eden