Thursday, 20 February 2020

Clatto Hill from Baintown - 08/02/2020

It's hard to express the excitement I feel over simply exploring new places. I imagine it must be the same sort of adrenalin rush that others get from going shopping or going to theme parks, only this is free, save for the petrol to get to your starting point.

Today was a new destination for me. I was finally going to get up Clatto Hill and I'd worked out what I hoped would be a lovely walk to do so. It started at Baintown, a place I'd never heard of until today, and, to be honest I still hadn't heard of it until I realised that's where I was parking. I actually parked at the Bonnybank Inn and walked into Baintown and down a footpath to cross a barely discernible burn.

Back Burn. NO3503
Still on a lichen adrenalin rush from the weekend before, my lichen antennae were out today and I snapped a photo of a fruiting Xanthoria - parietina?

Xanthoria parietina.
I headed uphill quite steeply now. turning right onto the Fife Pilgrim Way at White Cottage and heading towards Whally Den.

Approaching Whallyden with Largo Law in the distance. NO3504
Today's walk began with some attractive ruins, at least I find ruins attractive, a legacy of the years I walked on Islay where the landscape was filled with abandoned ruins and I imagined I was calling for a cup of tea there and what stores these walls would tell if they could speak. I get a little romantic like that, thinking of the laughter and tears, the blood and sweat the stone has absorbed and how that bestows life into these ruins, so that they seem to breathe. Call me a romantic, but that's how I think when I walk these ways.
Ruin at Wester Kilmux NO3605 (from NO3504)

Broadleys ruin. NO3504
Seeing I was about to enter some dense conifer plantation that stretched as far as the eye I could see, I decided to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy my first break out in the open. The forestry actually extended much further at one point and stumps of trees provided excellent perch for me. A lady passed me (with her dog of course) and asked if I was doing the Fife Pilgrim Way. "Was I on my way to Ceres?" I hoped it wasn't too much of a lie to answer in the affirmative. It was simpler to do so. I've learned my lesson from too many well-meaning people in the past, simply passing the time of day and I start going into great detail about where I'm heading and they start trying to help when I don't really need their help and it just gets embarrassing. "Lovely day for it," she smiled as she walked past me.

Approaching Kilmux Wood. NO3505
So far on my Scottish rambles I have not been thwarted in my plans as many times as I was down south, despite the plethora of so called footpaths down there. I was pleased today that aside from a few fallen branches and the ubiquitous mud there were no major obstacles. I ave to confess though, that I tend to forget such minor difficulties when thinking about the walk afterwards. It tends to be when I'm with other people that I'm much more aware of things like barbed wire fences and mud.

Kilmux Wood becomes Devon Wood and then I was heading north into Edensmuir Forest and Clatto Hill. Although I was following the Fife Pilgrim Way here on its way down to Ceres, I had deviated from my route in order to bag the trigpoint on Clatto Hill. On my very first Fife walk I had nearly visited this trigpoint but deemed it to be too far off the beaten path and so had put it on the back burner until today, so you can imagine (perhaps) my excitement at the prospect of finally reaching it.

Other than the trigpoint and the prospect of Ceres, there is little to commend a walk up Clatto Hill. I resisted the temptation to strike out across tree felled land in a bid to find a shortcut to the summit. I've learned that lesson as well. I waited for an obvious way to open before me and then strode off, only pausing once at some irresistible lichen.

Cladonia chlorophea (I think)

Cladonia floerkaena (I think)

Cladonia floerkaena (I think)

Cladonia polydactyla (I'm pretty sure)

Clatto Hill trigpoint. NO3506

I reckoned I'd added at least a mile to my walk with this gratuitous slog to the trigpoint, so I rushed back down to where I'd deviated from my path and continued to Devon Cottage. There is a plethora of tracks marked on my map in Devon Wood and yet I could not find the one I wanted. It simply wasn't there. I forgot about this bit of the walk when I said I'd not encountered many obstacles; this definitely was and I would only take the hardiest of souls on such a trail blaze as this. I started off with fixed determination to find the path to Torloisk and Devon Common, but my determination diminished with every grazing branch and ankle-twisting hole, till I stormed back to the boring road at Devon Cottage.

The reason I'd been so keen to find Devon Common was that this was the site of a conventicle at which the Covenanter Donald Cargill had preached in June 1681. It was one of his last sermons; he was captured at Covington Mill a month later and subsequently executed for his Presbyterian beliefs and refusal to accept Episcopalianism. I'd noticed, however, when I'd drawn my route out originally,  that there were two Devon Commons marked on the map so headed now for the westernmost one, taking a photo of NO3405 before I left it.

Devon Cottage. NO3405
Although I could see Devon Common Farm ages before I arrived there, I needed to enter a different gridsquare in order to get a proper Geograph photo of it. Sometimes I forget that I can still take photos of other things; that every photograph I take doesn't have to be a Geograph one. Silly, I know.

The trouble with Devon Common (2), other than not knowing which Devon Common was the Donald Cargill one, was that I was only going to be in the gridsquare momentarily to get the photo and I hoped a) that no dogs would come barking furiously and jumping up at me upon my approach b) that nothing or no-one else would come barking/roaring/bellowing/ whispering up to me at my approach and inhibit or prevent me from taking the requisite photograph. These are all things that have happened in the past. I don't like taking photographs of houses really - for obvious reasons. Hopefully I was surreptitious enough today.

Devon Common from  the north, looking south. NO3405

The award for the most boring photograph of the day. barn at Devon Common. NO3305

Devon Common from the south-west. NO3304

Congratulating myself on having negotiated my way through the farmyard, I emerged on the very path I wanted to be on and walked to the road end at Milldeans, where there is an attractive sawmill.

Milldeans Sawmill. NO3304
I passed the time of a day with a cyclist heading in the opposite direction to me before turning off to Skellyhead. I was disappointed not to see a footpath sign here, but walked on regardless; after all, as I've said above, I'm seldom thwarted by a lack of paths. I wish I hadn't said that because I'd forgotten about this major hurdle.

I approached 'Skellyhead under the close scrutiny of a couple exercising what looked like a sled team of huskies in their garden. They followed my movements as I adopted an air of confidence I did not feel. With their eyes burning into my neck I decided I'd just go and ask them where the path was. I started with an apology for interrupting them and told them there was a path marked on my map which did not appear to be there anymore. I'm not sure how many of my words were heard because the huskies were in uproar.

I finally ascertained that there used to be a path at Cottargreen, but it had long gone, but I could still walk round the edge of the field to join the road to Kennoway. I refrained from telling them my exact route because (naturally) I wasn't going the straightforward way; I had gridsquares to bag after all!

This was a bit of a blow,but \i trudged on, looking forward to reaching North Mains Ruins, which I couldn't see because of a monster of a new build house right on the spot where it was. It couldn't be! It was. North Mains Ruin was a ruin no more; all traces were gone, along with the path marked on the map. I really thought I'd had it this time and this was by far the worst part of the walk and a contender for the worst part of any Scottish walk hitherto.

I snapped a quick photo of Donald Rose Reservoir, fearing being accosted at any moment as I wasn't sure whether I was trespassing or not as I traversed first one wall and then another and gingerly went round the edge of a field to join a path which would lead me to the minor road into Kennoway.

Donald Rose Reservoir from North Mains Farm. NO3303
Wind turbine near Langside. NO3303

Towards the coast. I could see the oil rigs which I can see from my flat. NO3303.
There were more new builds along this track and I walked confidently past them to the road and my last gridsquare of the day. NO3403 and I'm not including the blurry photo of the gatepost because it's just too embarrassing.

For the last several miles I'd been looking for somewhere to eat my lunch. Everywhere was either too overlooked or unsuitable for other reasons. In the end I walked back to the car and drove to Falkland along the back roads, pulling over to eat my lunch in a lay-by. You see, my walks are not always perfect!

Number of new gridsquares: 9
Number of miles walked: 8.2
Number of benchmarks seen: 1
Number of trigpoints: 1
Number of huskies: 6
Walk worth repeating it: No, but I have drawn another route to attempt the other Devon Common and go on to Ceres. Two cars needed.



Tuesday, 18 February 2020

Of folly and follies - Kirkcaldy west - Raith - 16/02/2020

I've entitled this 'Of folly and follies' because some might say it was folly for me to venture out alone on the day of Storm Dennis. Truth is, I cherish my free time so much, I am loathe to relinquish it to the sofa, so, knowing that there was only myself that could possibly rant and rave about getting cold and wet and hit on the head by a falling branch, I set off from Beveridge Park car park with enough layers to keep me warm in Antarctica. Oh, and the other type of folly you'll see soon enough . . .

Beveridge Park, Kirkcaldy. NT2790
Knowing that the only people I was likely to see today were dog walkers in Beveridge Park, I hastened through this deserted land, spying only a handful of hardy souls and shivering dogs.

I'm not convinced I've admitted to another penchant of mine which I have recently allowed myself to indulge in - that of spying benchmarks. Yes, I knew you'd be excited. On these solo excursions I am not content enough with photographing every gridsquare and making an alphabetical list of all the birds and animals I see (soon to be added - flora!); I also have to plot all the benchmarks from the Ordnance Survey's excellent database and go and hunt these out. Most of them have either been removed or covered over and I do limit the length of time I hunt for them because, quite frankly, it's a little embarrassing staring for too long at a wall. People begin to think you've gone crazy. Anyway, I found a total of 10 out of about 20 today, so that's pretty good going.

The first two were along Balwearie Road and, at the risk of boring you completely, I'll include just one photo.

Balwearie Road benchmark. NT2790
I recognised the road from my drives to Balwearie High School on Friday evenings for badminton. I had always wondered where the road led after I turned left to the school and I was about to find out . . the golf club, and onwards to Balwearie.

The fields were very flooded here and I paused to take a photo of a statue-like Grey Heron which took flight upon the snappy arrival of three terriers - the owner of which was the last person I was to see until I arrived back in Kirkcaldy several hours later.

Flooded fields west of Beveridge Park. NT2690

Grey Heron
I trudged uphill, getting warmer and warmer.

Track to Balwearie. NT2690

Track to Balwearie. NT2590
It would be interesting to see where the footpath leads that continues westwards at Balwearie (where there is also marked a ruined Castle and a benchmark), but my route today headed north just before Balwearie.

Balwearie. NT2590

Balwearie. NT2590
I forgot that a taxi passed me along this road, stopping at Balwearie, turning round and coming back again. I also forgot that I did pass another soul - a man out for a walk with his dog. I very rarely see anyone out for a walk who hasn't got a dog. I didn't see any evidence of a ruined castle, but there was a lot of evidence of the recent heavy rainfall.

At Boglily Braes, I paused to admire some lovely rootworks.

Tree roots, Boglily Braes. NT2590
Boglily Braes. NT2590

I feel sure this curvy little road will look delightful in spring and summer. perhaps adorned with Bluebells. I must return to investigate. That's three walks I've got to do that for so far!

But would I ever get out of NT2590?!

Raith House (NT2591) from NT2590

I emerged at the B925 near the Buffalo Farm (Boglily Farm), opposite which are what probably used to be the gateposts of the driveway to Balwearie Castle, adorned with a benchmark!

Former entrance to Balwearie Castle (benchmark is on left-hand post) NT2591
Just west of the Buffalo Farm I turned right on an unsignposted footpath which led to a padlocked gate. Undeterred I followed the field round, glad of Memory Map to guide me (how did I manage pre-Memory Map?) Stepping over a broken chicken wire fence, I arrived at a minor road and bridge. This was Croupie Craigs Bridge and it spans the Dronachy Burn which feeds into Raith Lake.

Croupie Craigs Bridge. NT2591
It didn't take me long to find the delightful rivet benchmark on this bridge. It immediately became my favourite Fife benchmark; I think it is my  first ever Fife rivet benchmark.

Rivet benchmark, Croupie Craigs Bridge. NT2591

Waterfall and Snowdrops at Croupie Craigs Bridge. NT2591
I nearly missed this delightful scene because I walked over the bridge and was going to go to find somewhere to sit with my cup of tea, but was drawn down to the water where this scene met my eyes. It was an obvious place to partake of some refreshment.  I sat with the sound of the waterfall and the silent unassuming Snowdrops, munching my packet of crisps, thinking life does not get much better than this.

The next landmark was Lady's Bridge where there was also a benchmark, but, despite a prolonged search, I could not find it.

Lady's Bridge and Datiefauld Plantation. NT2491
At a small pond further on, I spied Little Grebe, Mute Swan and Mallard and added them to my alphabetised list.

Pond near Cotton Bank. NT2491
To the north-west I could see what looked like a ruined church, with another one to the north, but, despite scouring the map, I could not see what these buildings were. I worked out I would be heading in the direction of the one to the north-west so would get a closer look and be able to see exactly where I was on the map.

I bypassed NT2492 as I would be re-entering it later on, and headed straight for the ruin I could see ahead of me. Surely it was a church?

Lambswell Folly. NT2392
I later discovered it was not a church, but one of three early 19th Century Raith Follies. The other two are Balwearie Tower and Torbain Tower. I haven't been able to find out anything else about these extraordinary buildings.

This was proving to be a very interesting walk and thankfully the weather was not only holding, but was actually sunny at times.

I continued to Bankhead of Raith, finding another old benchmark beneath a telegraph pole which I felt sure no-one had seen since it was first cut however many decades ago.

Benchmark near Bankhead of Raith. NT2392
I spent some time exploring Bankhead of Raith ruin, one because there was supposed to be a benchmark there and two because it was derelict so no-one was going to accost me. What a glorious place to live with views to the Lomond Hills to the north-west and the Forth to the east. I did not find the benchmark though.

Bankhead of Raith. NT2392
The cottages next door were inhabited but I did not see anyone, only wheelie bins at the end of the drive, which I photographed as it was a new square and one I was only nipping in and out of .

Bankhead of Raith junction. NT2393
Due to lots of traffic, it was not a pleasant walk down the road to Torbain, where I could see the next folly (although I did not know that's what it was at the time). I stepped aside to let a car past and it splattered me and my camera as it sped through a puddle. I shouted after it to let off steam as it disappeared round the corner.

Torbain Tower. NT2492

Torbain Farm. NT2492
The tower is part of another derelict farm. There was a huge pile of rubbish in one of the barns and an interesting chimney. I didn't sound my horn for attention despite the invitation to do so; I'd rather no-one know I'd been!

A turn off onto a long, straight path led me to the western edge of Kirkcaldy. Was this Chapel, Newliston or Templehall? I wasn't sure. I was sure, however,  that the best part of my walk was behind me and I wondered if I should have done it in reverse to get this bit over and done with first. But then I had thought it was going to rain in the afternoon, which meant I would have risked walking through the most attractive part in the rain.

Straight path to Kirkcaldy. NT2492

Junction at Newliston, Kirkcaldy. NT2593
My next mission was to find the trigpoint at Kirkcaldy's highest point, Bogie Mains. This did not prove difficult to do.

Bogie Mains trigpoint, Kirkcaldy (122 M). NT2593
I now wended my way through Potmeal Plantation, skirting some high(ish) rise flats.

Potmeal Plantation, Kirkcaldy. NT2592
This now seems to be known as Rabbit Braes Community Park and is adorned with various wooden sculptures, presumably depicting some of the creatures you can expect to see here, except maybe not wolves!

Rabbit Braes Community Park. NT2592
I was getting in need of somewhere to sit and eat my lunch and that's what made me half wish I'd done the walk the other way round. It was getting towards lunch time and I was now in a built up area with teenagers wandering round, so not conducive to a relaxing picnic.

Longbraes Plantation, Kirkcaldy. NT2692
Looking at the map now, I can see an alternative way back to the car park and this is another reason to reattempt this walk. It would negate the need to return via the town itself, making it a more pleasant route of approximately the same length.

As it was, I found a tree trunk to sit on, out of sight of teenagers or anyone else and ate my lunch.
Then I continued through Longbraes Plantation till it met the A910, where I crossed the road and joined another footpath heading south, past a small birdless pond (other than Mallard).

Pond near Raith Lake. NT2691
I followed this path through a housing estate to its end at a roundabout I was very familiar with from my badminton travelling. I photographed my final gridsquare and walked back to the car. I had stayed dry all day and had a thoroughly enjoyable walk. If I hadn't known Storm Dennis was hitting the rest of the country, I certainly wouldn't have known as a result of this walk!

Beveridge Park with lion statues. NT2791
Number of new gridsquares: 13
Number of miles walked: 9.5
Number of follies seen: 2
Number of trigpoints bagged: 1
Number of benchmarks spotted: 9
Walk worth repeating: yes, with alterations to avoid walking through Kirkcaldy. Revisit Boglily Braes in spring or summer, look for Balwearie Castle and Raith Tower. Maybe extend to burial ground (and another trig) north of A92.
Highlights: Croupie Craigs Bridge and waterfall, Bankhead of Raith farmhouse with view, Lambswell and Torbain follies.